Hvar Town
The 2024 travel guide
Ibiza, Mykonos, San Tropez. No list of top nightlife destinations in Europe is complete without Hvar Town, an Mediterranean island paradise off the coast of Croatia on the crystal clear Adriatic Sea. As a global magnet for yacht travel and high-end thrills, Hvar Town has all the features you would expect: gorgeous architecture, phenomenal DJs, indulgent spas, and outstanding restaurants.
But what we love about Hvar Town is that these exceptional luxuries are just a gateway to an even richer experience: unspoiled nature, gorgeous European folk traditions, and a constellation of unforgettable day trips.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
How to get to Hvar Town
Getting to Hvar Town is easy, once you know how things are laid out. Most importantly, Hvar is an island. The nearest large city on the mainland is called Split. It’s about an hour from Hvar by speedboat. Split has an airport, a bus terminal, a train station, and a ferry port, all with routes serving national and international destinations. Bus, train, and ferry are all within sight of each other – a 10-minute walk from the historic core of Split. The airport is 30 minutes outside of the city. To get from the airport to central Split, you can grab a taxi or Uber (€25-45) or take the bus (€6). The bus makes a few stops, so it takes about an hour in total, but it is clean, modern, and easy to find.
People often confuse the town of Hvar with the island of Hvar. Hvar Town (“Grad Hvar” in Croatian) is a picturesque, Venetian outpost on the island’s southwestern coast. Hvar Island, outlined in red on the map below, is a landmass in the southern Dalmatian archipelago that is three times the size of Manhattan. There is more to Hvar than just Hvar Town. The two other larger towns on the island are Stari Grad and Jelsa (highlighted on the map). Stari Grad is known for sailing and understated luxury. Jelsa is an elegant destination for families.
Coming to Hvar Town without a car
Most visitors come to the island without a car or boat. If you fall in this category, then you can take a catamaran or private transfer to Hvar.
Coming to Hvar Town by catamaran
Catamarans are ticketed passenger boats that serve pedestrians. They come and go from Split to Hvar Town all day long and into the evening. The ride lasts about an hour. There are a number of providers, such as Krilo, but state-backed Jadrolinija is the cheapest and very reliable. Catamarans serve other towns on island Hvar, such as Stari Grad and Jelsa. If you arrive at another port, you will need to hire a taxi to bring you to Hvar Town, which costs at least €60.
Catamarans sometimes sell out in July and August and ticket lines can be long, so it never hurts to buy your ticket online a day in advance. Board your catamaran a half hour before departure to grab a good seat. Catamarans always have restrooms and canteens with snacks, espresso drinks, and beverages.
Coming to Hvar Town by private transfer
A private transfer often first involves a driver meeting you at Split Airport to drive you to the ferry port, followed by a speedboat directly to Hvar Town. Private transfers are of course more expensive than public catamarans, but can be well worth it in certain situations. For example, we advise families coming directly to Hvar Town from North or South America to hire a private transfer, because most will have already endured an overnight flight to Split Airport. The additional transit time spent getting to Split central, waiting for the ferry or catamaran, and then taking the boat ride over to the island can be too much, especially for children, and set a wonderful holiday off on the wrong foot.
It can also make sense to hire a boat if your flight gets in too late to Split to be able to catch a catamaran or ferry. With a private boat, you can be on Hvar in an hour, rather than overpaying for a hotel and meals in Split, then going through another round of transit the following day.
Of course, if you are a Hvar Away guest, making arrangements for your private transfer(s) will be taken care of by our dedicated team member assigned as your concierge.
Coming to Hvar Town with a car
There are only two car ferry ports on the island of Hvar: Sućuraj and Stari Grad. The island has other ports (Hvar Town and Jelsa) but they only serve catamarans, which are boats that carry only pedestrians. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. Tickets cost about €50 per vehicle and should be booked well in advance, because the car ferries usually fill up. Plan to park your car in the ferry boat line at least an hour ahead of time as an additional precaution.
Sućuraj to Hvar Town
The car ferry to Sućuraj leaves from a beautiful little village on the mainland called Drvenik. This is in the Makarska region of Croatia, an hour and a half south of Split and two hours north of Dubrovnik. Although lovely, Sućuraj is on the complete opposite side of the island from Hvar Town, separated by a truly hair-raising road. Unless you are coming from Makarska or a southern destination like Dubrovnik or Bosnia, we recommend that you select Stari Grad as your port of entry.
Stari Grad to Hvar Town
The ferry to Stari Grad port departs from Split. It takes two hours in normal weather. The drive from the port to Hvar Town is easy – and strikingly beautiful. Just follow the signs on the main road, and you will arrive at your destination in about 25 minutes.
Coming to Hvar Town by yacht or sailboat
The area around Hvar is one of the world’s best for yachting and sailing, boasting gentle waves, exceptional beauty, and innumerable ports and anchorages with inviting amenities. There are few better ways to enter Hvar Town than aboard a sailing vessel, with the wind in your hair and a glass of wine in your hand. If you have the pleasure of coming by private sail or yacht, your skipper or charter company will handle docking or provide detailed instructions. As a word to the wise – berths are limited, so reserve well in advance.
What to do in Hvar Town
Hvar Town represents pure hedonism: first-rate food, fun, design, and relaxation. There is more to do here than most people could manage in a lifetime, and plenty to fill a holiday with unforgettable moments. Here are a few of our top suggestions:
Beaches within walking distance of Hvar Town
Maybe you just dropped off your bags and are ready to refresh yourself with a swim, or maybe you’re looking for a quick dip before coffee in the morning. For convenience and liveliness, these nearby beaches can’t be beat.
Beaches west of Hvar Town
Walk right (westwards) on the Riva (the waterfront promenade) as you’re facing the harbour, and you’ll encounter the following beaches, from first to last:
- Bonj Beach – a classic wedding site, and not without reason. Gorgeous sun loungers and chic Mediterranean architecture make this spot the quintessential spot to get into the European summer mindset.
- Majerovica Beach – this tiny beach boasts a nearby waterpark that will keep kids entertained for hours if not days. Of course, there are a number of nearby cabanas, including the legendary/infamous Hula Hula, where adults can also while away the time.
- President’s Beach Podstine – this quiet beach is a bit of a trek from the centre of Hvar Town, but the reward is a major dose of solitude. Sheltered from the wind (and the crowds), Podstine does not have a restaurant or toilets, but nearby Falko Beach Bar can supply both.
President’s Beach Podstine
Beaches east of Hvar Town
Walking left (eastwards) on the Riva brings you to another set of beaches.
- Lučica Beach – nestled below Hvar’s monastery, this small beach is a favourite among partygoers catching up on rest after a night of festivities. A bit of a scene in the summertime, but lovely and convenient nonetheless.
- Pokonji Dol – bright blue water and a white pebble beach form the perfect backdrop for a Mediterranean retro reverie. Slip on your swimmers, turn up some 1960s Italian pop music, and imagine you’re Sophia Loren or Alain Delon working on your tan between film festivals.
- Robinson Beach – a longer walk from Hvar, think of this as a half day outing, but this slice-of-heaven beach is a true escape. Exchange crowds for a boho beach bar, fresh food, and a friendly dog.
Robinson Beach
Beaches by boat or car from Hvar Town
Pakleni Islands
The Pakleni Archipelago is one of Hvar’s best known attractions, floating just opposite the town’s graceful Venetian riva. The islands are so close to Hvar that in the old days, men used to swim between the two. You can reach them by water taxi, a group tour or private transfer, and even sea kayak there. There are three great ways to enjoy these small islands:
- Find a secluded beach. There are a total of 16 islands in the Pakleni Archipelago. Most are uninhabited. Grab your slice of paradise and swim or snorkel to your heart’s content. Jerolim has been one of the best beaches for naturists for over a century and Vodnjak is incredible for divers.
- Stroll around Palmižana. Palmižana is the biggest island of the Paklenis. It has a marina with a cute little cafe, a playground, several high-end restaurants, a botanical garden, and a small gallery. Paths lace the whole area. Have a wander – a cocktail or a dip in the sea is never far. If you fancy an easy hike, head over to Vlaka, where you will find ruins of a Roman villa, healing mud baths with millennia of history, and the vineyard closest to the sea of any on Hvar.
Palmižana Beach
- Get your party on. Pakleni is home to Carpe Diem Beach, a late-night satellite of one of the best known nightclubs in the Mediterranean. An unforgettable after-party ambience, house jams pulse through the trees into the early hours of the morning. Don’t expect to just “wash up” though: Carpe Diem has been on the glitz list for over 20 years and reservations are required.
South side
Hvar Town is on the famous south side of island Hvar. It’s a short boat ride to dozens of unforgettably beautiful beaches and picturesque seaside villages, curtained by vertiginously steep vineyards and limestone cliffs. Some of these locations are accessible by vehicle or boat. From closest to farthest, west to east:
- Milna – easy, breezy Mediterranean fun. Easily accessible by car or boat from Hvar, the village has a good-sized beach popular with families, and a handful of restaurants. The coolest part of Milna lies inland though. If you and your crew are up for a little hike, ask for directions to Malo Grablje, the not-quite ghost town that lies just a kilometre or so inland of Milna, through a high canyon of gorgeous olive groves. If you want to reward yourself for your adventures, call ahead to reserve a table at Stori Komen and prepare to have one of the most unique and delicious dining experiences of your travels.
- Zaraće – this pair of beaches, Mala and Vela Zaraće, are two of the most beautiful on Hvar. Mala Zaraće faces east – it is small and cradled by high cliffs – making it a good fit for those seeking shelter from summer rays. Vela Zaraće has a pair of fantastic small restaurants and a lovely bay, also enclosed by a unique stone outcropping. Due to limited parking, Zaraće is never very crowded. The island of Hvar has a special energy – usually muffled by the hubbub of travel and commerce. Its presence is especially palpable here.
- Dubovica – a perfect little beach crowned by an 18th century stone villa. Dubovica has attracted both locals and foreign tourists for decades. Once you reach the parking spot on the main road, you will need to follow the zig-zagging pathway by foot down to the beach itself – it’s best to avoid flip-flops for this steep walk down. Dubovica has very little shade and no umbrellas to rent, so make sure to bring your own. You will find a small local restaurant Konoba Dubovica on one side of the beach and Duba Beach Bar for fresh juices and cocktails on the other. It’s never truly “crowded” here, but by the rather lofty standards of island Hvar, this beach can feel a bit busy in the high season.
Dubovica Beach
- Red Rocks – one of Hvar’s most photogenic locations, coral-tinged cliffs plunge into brilliant turquoise waters. A phenomenal cliff-jumping and snorkel spot.
- Lučišća Beach – this little gem is hidden beneath 500m-high cliffs and is difficult to reach by car, so it remains fairly secluded all through the summer. While the descent may be a bit challenging (think: bumpy and steep dirt road followed by a further 10-minute hike), it's definitely worth the effort. Of course, if you're arriving by sailboat, you'll avoid this problem altogether. Lučišća boasts crystal clear waters against a backdrop of thick pine forest and a nearby beach bar, but as with most bays on the south side, remember to bring your umbrella and plan to arrive before the peak heat of the day.
Lučišća Beach
- Sveta Nedjelja – if you’re in search of the true spirit of Dalmatia (as the southern coast of Croatia is called), look no further. Grab lunch and a flight of local vintages in an old wine cellar called Bilo Idro. Snap a photo between cliff dives. Discover an ancient chapel nestled in an even more ancient cave. Get your heart pumping on Via Ferrata. Marvel at the grit and passion that goes into every drop of Plavac Mali (the most popular local varietal of red wine) when you gaze up at the dizzying steep vineyards, almost tumbling down the rocky hillsides above this old wine trading village. Every sun-soaked vine is tended by hand, because the terrain is far too steep for machines.
- Ivan Dolac – a bustling little summer retreat, full of families.
- Zavala – the third of the “three sisters,” the trio of small fishing and wine trading towns on the south side of Hvar that now welcome vacationers in the summer months. Zavala is perhaps the quietest of the three, with a long string of pebble beaches to explore. The village also boasts several wonderful small restaurants. This remote hamlet is the jumping off point to the even more mysterious island of Šćedro, where the ruins of previous empires – Illyrian burial mounds, a Roman villa, a 15th century monastery, and a World War II fighter plane – have all left their traces.
Culture
Hvar Summer Festival
Going into its 63rd year, the Hvar Summer Festival is the marquee cultural event on the island, offering classical music performances, folk ensembles, and headliners from the world of Croatian popular music.
Ultra Beach
Ultra is a series of electronic dance music festivals held around the world, from Korea to Peru. Ultra Europe takes place in Split, and then the party continues to Carpe Diem Beach Bar on Hvar.
History and gardens
Hvar is home to the highest number of UNESCO heritages of any island in Europe, which range from music to organic agriculture to a delicate lace made from the agave plant. Hvar Town alone is home to two fortresses, a monastery with a rare book library, a convent, an intact Renaissance villa with gardens, a superb Venetian cathedral, and numerous chapels and churches. Let yourself get lost in the town’s cobble-stone side streets, where bright purple bougainvillaea and blood-orange caper flowers tumble through gothic windows and over courtyard walls.
Who would have guessed that the centre of Hvar Town is also home to a tiny, ornate, and historic theatre – one of the oldest in Europe. It’s well worth a visit, and you will get to admire the restored ornate decoration, see a VR experience, and view a short Hvar Town historical film.
Shopping
Don’t be deterred by the trinket shops. Past the first row of stores on the sea, there are dozens of outstanding local boutiques, selling everything from handmade toys to traditional silver jewellery. Here are a few of our favourites:
- Hommoca Concept Store – a tightly curated selection of minimalist men’s apparel.
- Isola – delicate ceramics, wooden toys, artisan perfumes, hand-woven bow-ties. Many stores now claim to sell handmade or local products. Isola really does so, and you can feel the love and skill in every item on its shelves. Don’t miss this one.
- Porta Maestra Wine Shop – a superb selection of local and regional wines, including some superb bottles from Istria, arrayed in and among an actual archaeological site. Stores like this are what makes the Mediterranean so special.
- Meraki Concept Store – one of the best-curated womenswear shops in all of Dalmatia, with on-trend and irresistible summer dresses, swimwear, and sets. If you ever get the feeling “there’s nothing in my suitcase I want to wear,” get yourself to Meraki – problem solved.
- Šoša Gallery – a lovely gallery and the best souvenir shop in the region. This is a family-owned store, focused on the bold and cheerful prints and sculptures of Darko Šoša, but also featuring brightly painted boats, miniature Hvar village figurines, and cool t-shirts, all locally made.
- Lyra Hvar – we love, love, love this line of handmade jewellery, designed and crafted by a local artisan. These pieces riff on filigree, a classic Croatian technique of weaving silver and gold filaments in a delicate, lace-like pattern. For simple pieces, the prices are shockingly affordable, making these a great gift or keepsake.
Nightlife
As mentioned above, Hvar is well-known as a nightlife destination. The big clubs are Carpe Diem, Hula Hula, and Pink Champagne. For a wild night, we personally love the scene at Jazz Barrr, Kiva, and Nautica.
For visitors whose days of late night revelry are mostly in the past – or who just want a mellower change of pace – check out these favourites:
- Central Park Club – the best venue for live music in Hvar.
- Ka'lavanda Bar – the best selection of liqueurs and craft cocktails on the island, if not the region.
- Teraca – we almost hate to share this one, because it is a local place and has an amazing atmosphere, even during the most crowded weeks of the summer. Great tapas. Perfect cocktails. Please don’t tell anyone else?
Mindfulness and active recreation
Hvar Town is a mecca for outdoor sports. Scuba diving, kayaking, biking, rock climbing, hiking – it’s all here. Croatia as a whole is an athletic country, punching way above its weight in European and international tournaments. Because of its natural beauty and superb terrain, the island has attracted a number of passionate athletes who now serve as guides to visitors in a variety of pursuits.
Of course, you don’t need to be a serious athlete to enjoy the outdoors. There are a number of gentle hikes and walks in the vicinity of Hvar Town – up to Fortica, along the southern coast to Milna. Kayaks and SUPs are generally inexpensive and available for full or half-day paddles around the bay.
Hvar has also attracted a deep and diverse community of mindfulness practitioners, offering experiences from yoga to sound healing and Reiki to massage. Suncokret Yoga has been recognised by The Guardian as one of the world’s best yoga retreats, and the Pharomatiq Spa of Maslina Resort in Stari Grad offers a deep immersion in luxurious self-care.
Pharomatiq Spa
For Hvar Away guests, our collection of wellness-based Experiences draws on our network of holistic therapists and specialists to provide in-villa treatments to help restore balance.
Day and weekend trips
Hvar Town is connected by catamaran to half a dozen gorgeous destinations:
- Korčula Town is a stunning walled village on the sea. The home of Marco Polo, this elegant outpost has long been a cross-roads of maritime trade and adventure. Today, it offers Michelin dining, a wonderful dance of the swords, stunning views of the Pelješac peninsula, and a gateway to one of the Adriatic’s lushest islands.
- Lastovo is a remote and densely forested island on the outer edge of the Dalmatian Archipelago. It offers true seclusion and pure nature. Not to be missed, if you can make time for it.
- Vis Town is the entry point to the island of Vis, which was a closed military base for much of the 20th century, due to its strategic location between Italy and the Balkans. Today, the town and island still feel just-discovered, and they offer some of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful sites in Croatia, including Stiniva Bay, Blue Cave, and Fort George.
- Bol on Brač is another gorgeous, typically Dalmatian seaside town. Now a destination for summer escapes and home to the famous Golden Horn or “Zlatni Rat” Beach, the town was once a hub for export of the island’s excellent wine and prized limestone – used to build the White House in the USA and the Parliament Houses of Vienna and Budapest.
Golden Horn Beach near Bol
Where to eat and drink in Hvar Town
Coffee
There are four ways to approach coffee in Hvar Town:
1. Savour Croatia’s legendary cafe culture. If the sun is shining, the terraces at every cafe in every town in this entire country are full of people – men and women, from babies to salty old fishermen – sipping a “kava” and having a chat. What could possibly be more important than taking time out of your day to catch up with friends, family, and acquaintances – according to Croatians, “baš ništa” (absolutely nothing)!
2. People-watch. Your best perches for people watching are Palace Elizabeth and Hotel Adriana, with generous terraces and indulgent lunch buffets with excellent views of the waterfront thoroughfare and all the splashy yacht traffic.
Get it done right. If you like your cappuccino just so or just prefer plant-based milks, head over to Kava 37 where skilled baristas serve up superb drinks.
Arrive at Kava37 early before the divine almond-filled croissants sell out
4. Enjoy it at home. Let us know ahead of time if you have a penchant for filter coffee (looking at you, Americans!). It’s hard to find in Europe, and we can make sure that your villa is stocked with a machine and appropriately ground coffee.
Sweets
Please, please bypass the Mlinars and grocery stores, and instead make your way to the handful of really exceptional patisseries in Hvar Town. You won’t regret it!
- Glôd offers gorgeous organic treats and croissants that are worth every calorie.
- Tucked just behind Palace Elizabeth, Sweets Pastry Shop has sumptuous cake pops, truffles, and cakes infused with flavours of island Hvar.
- Find guilt-free indulgence and healthier fare at Sweet Republic with vegan juices, breakfast bowls, smoothies, bars, and balls.
Meals
There are dozens of great restaurants in Hvar Town, so we will not try to review them all, but just to highlight a few standouts:
- Konoba Menego – if you don’t have long in Dalmatia (or even if you do), try to stop by this restaurant, located in an old family home, where the traditional cuisine is matched by the servers’ folk dress, and classic local tunes are always on rotation.
- Gariful – This is the VIP veteran of Hvar’s international jet-set scene, beloved of oligarchs and scurrilous royals. The food is great – and wildly expensive. Should you find yourself bored, just look down: sharks swim under the glass floor.
- Mediterraneo – recipient of a Michelin nod, this is a family-owned restaurant, in operation for 70 years.
The intimate courtyard at Mediterraneo
- Black Pepper – one of the best meals you’ll have in the region. Be sure to try the owner’s homemade liqueurs!
- Fig – an excellent option for vegans and vegetarians, even omnivores will find something to delight their palate here.
Where to stay in Hvar Town
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