Pitve – THE 2026 TRAVEL GUIDE

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Pitve is, in our estimations, one of the most picturesque settlements on Hvar Island. We think it’s worth a visit even if you’re not staying here for your holiday. The hamlet offers panoramic views that extend from the distant island of Brač, across the majestic Biokovo mountains, over to the charming nearby town of Jelsa.

Pitve itself sits among lush vineyards and olive groves that blanket the hillsides, and is known for its charming stone houses, typical of the Mediterranean, with small doors, windows, and protective wooden shutters. These houses are closely packed, creating narrow, labyrinthine streets that hide quaint inner courtyards.

As one of the oldest settlements on the island, Pitve consists of two parts: Upper (or Old) Pitve, and Lower (or New) Pitve. The older section dates back to Illyrian times, while the newer part was settled in the late 15th and early 16th centuries.

Jelsa originally emerged as the port of Pitve, and was home to an impressive fleet of trading and passenger sailboats during the 19th century, and by its end, Jelsa had the biggest sailing fleet in central Dalmatia. Croatian-flagged schooners, brigs, and barques roamed the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, exported wine to France and Italy, transported goods to Black Sea ports bringing back grain and corn, and exported world-famous Brač stone across the globe. This new economy helped build Jelsa into one of the most prosperous municipalities in the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the time.

Though Pitve now has a modest population of about 50 residents, the village still hums with life, albeit more quietly than in the past. In the summer, the dominant sounds are the chirping of crickets, while in the winter, the wind still whistles through the empty stone-paved streets.

Pitve is a classic Dalmatian hill village with deep historical roots and a timeless stone-built character, but staying here offers more than just bucolic appeal. It particularly suits those who value quiet relaxation, yet its position near the island's main road and just a few minutes’ drive from Jelsa make it a solid base for guests who want to pop out to explore the island without too much fuss. Here are our recommendations.

Pitve is a place for meaningful solitude and restorative quiet. Start your day with a meditative hike to the Church of St. James, situated on the slope between Upper and Lower Pitve, from where you can soak up magnificent panoramic views from the church courtyard.

For more experienced hikers and bikers, there is an old trail that snakes over the surrounding hills. Follow it to the Chapel of St. Anthony, a breathtaking vantage point with views extending over both the north and south sides of the island.

From there, it’s possible to continue down the trail to the seaside village of Zavala, where you will find numerous cafes and restaurants to replenish yourself after a full day of hiking.

In the afternoon, stroll over to The Viticulture Collection, a wine museum situated in the area between Upper and Lower Pitve. Having opened in 2023 and housed in a former elementary school building that closed in 1965, this museum celebrates and reveals Hvar’s storied winemaking history.

It features an ethnographic collection that includes original vineyard tools, wine production and storage equipment, and traditional cookware. There are just a few exhibits, but the museum hosts are extremely knowledgeable and pleased to share the secrets of Hvar’s vineyards and the profound changes they have undergone over the centuries.

Entrance tickets cost €10 and include a small sample of wine.

Few visitors to Hvar Island manage to resist heading straight for the nearest beach. Just because Pitve is an inland village does not mean you’ll have a hard time getting to the beach. The nearest beaches lie around the neighbouring towns of Jelsa and Vrboska on the north coast, which are both very short drives away. You will find a good selection of options there, from lively spots with beach bars to quieter coves.

Alternatively, take a longer drive down the valley to the beach for a dip on one of the south side’s idyllic coves. Hvar’s southern coast is the island at its most dramatic and intoxicating. Sheer cliffs plunge into glowing turquoise water, hidden coves appear around every inlet, and the beaches (almost all smooth pebbles) rank among the finest in Croatia. There are plenty to choose from, including (from closest to furthest): Skalinada, Petarčica, Ivan Dolac, Jagodna, and Zogon.

To reach the island’s southern side, you will need to pass through the Old Pitve Tunnel, which is a mini adventure of its own. Carved out mostly by local men in the 1960s, the 1.4km tunnel is single-lane and unlit. This being Dalmatia, there is a wine cellar inside, just to the left of the entrance from the Pitve side, not that we would encourage you to pause and inspect.

Once you emerge from the tunnel, you will be greeted by a glorious view of the sea shimmering below. But don’t get too carried away, and be sure that your brakes are in good order. A few steep switchbacks await you as you navigate down to the shore. Then, drive along the coast road until you reach your beach of choice.

For more insights into Hvar’s gorgeous coves, read our guide to the best beaches on Hvar.

Jelsa is the most easily accessible town from Pitve, reached in less than five minutes by car. The town has a gentle, almost storybook Mediterranean atmosphere. The historic centre remains compact yet thoroughly inviting, featuring just enough narrow stone streets and small squares to prompt a leisurely wander and a handful of worthwhile photo opportunities. The Church of St John, together with its surrounding square, proves particularly photogenic.

At the heart of town lies a leafy park complete with playgrounds, offering welcome shade even during the peak of summer. It serves as an ideal spot to pause after strolling the promenade, perhaps with an ice cream in hand.

Jelsa is also home to two sandy, family-friendly beaches: Mina and Grebišće, both of which are walkable from the town centre.

Jelsa also functions as a convenient departure point for the popular boat service to Bol on Brač Island. The early-morning sailing allows plenty of time to explore Bol and its famous Golden Horn Beach, with a return in the late afternoon that leaves you back in Jelsa comfortably in time for a relaxed dinner at one of the excellent harbourfront restaurants.

A quaint former fishing village about 10 minutes by car from Pitve, Vrboska consists of narrow canals lined by stone houses and an intriguing fortress church. The village is crossed by pretty bridges, giving it a distinctly Venetian charm.

Despite its modest size, Vrboska provides ample entertainment for a straightforward day trip from Pitve. There is a well-equipped dive centre, a marina favoured by sailors, and a windsurfing school. Rentals are available for kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and canoes. Nearby you will also find tennis courts, beach volleyball setups, an inflatable water park, and even ping-pong tables.

Families especially appreciate Soline Beach, a generous crescent of fine pebbles with exceptionally clear, shallow water that shelves gradually. It is ideal for young children to paddle and play safely. Pines fringe the shore, offering plenty of natural shade on warmer days. A café and basic facilities are on hand, making it a relaxed and convenient spot for a full morning or afternoon by the water.

Stari Grad completes the trio of towns that are very easy to drive to Pitve. It is the oldest town on Hvar Island with its own fascinating history. You can easily lose an hour or two wandering the narrow stone streets lined with centuries-old houses. Along the way, numerous shops and galleries display local crafts and artwork, many pieces worth considering as a meaningful way to bring a slice of Hvar home with you.

The town is also largely flat, which makes it much easier to get around than Hvar Town's steeper lanes. This suits older visitors or families with young children particularly well.

A visit to Stari Grad would feel incomplete without exploring the remarkable Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest continuously cultivated agricultural landscapes on the planet. This vast expanse appears almost unchanged from 2,400 years ago, when Greek settlers from the island of Paros arrived and parcelled the land – known as the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) – into a precise grid of large estates.

Today, the Plain remains a living mosaic of vineyards, olive groves and dry-stone walls, tended much as they were in antiquity. It stands as a quiet testament to enduring human ingenuity and harmony with the land, well worth a leisurely cycle or drive to appreciate its scale and subtle beauty.

Like most villages on Hvar, Pitve has no hotels and therefore welcomes guests exclusively through private accommodation. A small number of apartments are available, but the highest level of comfort and privacy in the village is found behind the stone walls of private villas.

Pitve lies inland rather than on the coast, and in the past its residents typically owned second homes down in nearby Jelsa. This arrangement helped preserve the village's original stone architecture and compact layout remarkably intact.

With the arrival of tourism, some of these traditional houses underwent careful renovation into holiday rentals. The result is a collection of properties that provide guests with absolute peace and privacy deep within Hvar’s rolling hills.

Hvar Away presents several carefully selected villas in Pitve with these priorities in mind. Each one stands beautifully on its own merits and can easily turn a good holiday into something extra special. That said, Pitve also has options for larger groups wishing to stay together, with villas that can be rented in combination. Among them are Villas Anouk and Belpur, positioned at the edge of the village, and the charming collection of four restored 15th-century stone houses that form Villas Dvor Quattro. If you’re travelling with a large group, or maybe planning your Hvar wedding, either of these might be the perfect place for you.

Pitve is home to only one restaurant, the gorgeous Konoba Dvor Duboković situated on a hilltop right in the heart of the village with sweeping views across vineyards stretching out across the Adriatic.

If you enjoy eating delicious homemade food in enchanting locations, then this konoba is definitely a must. Flourishing with vibrant flowers and rustic tables and chairs, Dvor Duboković is a charming family-run restaurant that embraces a homely, authentic charm. Just remember to call one day in advance to make a reservation.

If you’re lucky enough that life is leading you to Pitve, start by orienting yourself to the island of Hvar. Visitors often mix up Hvar Town with the island itself. Hvar Town (known locally as “Grad Hvar”) is the celebrated southwestern hub, the island’s capital, renowned for its sophisticated and luxurious appeal. The island of Hvar, however, is far larger – a substantial stretch of land in Croatia's southern Dalmatian archipelago, roughly three times the size of Manhattan.

Pitve lies inland on Hvar Island, tucked into the northern flank of the island's mountainous ridge. It is one of the quieter settlements, offering a pleasant contrast to the livelier hubs such as Hvar Town, Stari Grad (the island's historical heart and a magnet for sailors), and nearby Jelsa, which is particularly popular with families.

What makes Pitve especially appealing is the sense of remoteness it provides, while in truth, you are never far from everyday conveniences or some of the island's finest dining spots.

The most straightforward major gateway to Hvar Island is Split, the vibrant mainland city that easily justifies a visit of its own. Split has an international airport, train and bus stations, and a bustling ferry port, all handily situated close to the atmospheric old town.

Split Airport sits about 30 minutes from the city centre. You can take the airport shuttle bus or a taxi/Uber to the ferry terminal, where you can then board a car ferry (essential if bringing your own vehicle) or a quicker passenger catamaran to the island. Services run to Hvar Town, Stari Grad and, once daily, Jelsa. Both Stari Grad and Jelsa are only a short drive from Vrbanj.

Read our complete guide as to how to get to Hvar for some further pointers.

Reaching Pitve without a car is quite straightforward. Simply book a Jadrolinija catamaran ticket from Split to Jelsa, Stari Grad, or Hvar Town. Bear in mind that catamarans to Jelsa and Stari Grad run only once daily in the afternoon, so if your flight lands earlier you may find it more convenient to head to Hvar Town, which enjoys several connections throughout the day.

From whichever port you arrive at, Pitve is just a short taxi ride away: around 10 minutes from Jelsa Port, roughly 15 minutes from Stari Grad Port, and about 30 minutes from Hvar Town.

Both car ferries and catamarans serve Stari Grad. In peak season, there is typically one catamaran per day (a pedestrian-only crossing that takes one hour) compared to up to five car ferries (a more leisurely two-hour voyage). The larger ferries tend to be steadier and kinder on those prone to seasickness. Both options feature onboard cafés serving light snacks and drinks, along with restrooms.

Catamarans do sell out in July and August, and queues can build quickly, so reserving online a day or two ahead is advisable. Aim to arrive at least 10 minutes before departure for boarding, though turning up 30 minutes early often secures better seats, as keen passengers frequently form lines well in advance. The crossing is generally pleasant, with weather-related cancellations uncommon in summer, though not impossible.

It is probably best to avoid arriving via Sućuraj unless you have ample time and a fondness for adventure. This pleasant little harbour lies at the eastern tip of Hvar, and the drive to Pitve takes well over an hour, much of it along a narrow, twisting road with sharp drops and minimal barriers. If you relish hairpin bends and a touch of excitement, however, it might suit you perfectly. Otherwise, one of the more central ports keeps things considerably simpler.

If you are renting a car on the Croatian mainland or driving your own car from Europe, you will need to take one of the regular Jadrolinija car ferries from Split to Stari Grad. The crossing costs around €40 per vehicle. Once docked in Stari Grad, the drive to Pitve is straightforward and pleasantly brief.

Alternatively, if you are coming from Dubrovnik or points south of Split, the Drvenik-Sućuraj ferry can prove more efficient. Though the subsequent drive across the island is winding and scenic (in the most exhilarating sense), it often saves hours compared to heading north to Split, queuing there and enduring the longer two-hour sailing.

In any case, it pays to reserve car ferry tickets a few days ahead during peak season and to join the queue at least an hour before departure. Spaces do sell out regularly in summer, and arriving early avoids any last-minute disappointment.