Jelsa – THE 2026 TRAVEL GUIDE

Jelsa is a picturesque town on Hvar’s northern coast with modern amenities and a charming social atmosphere. Jelsa makes preparing meals at home easy with two large supermarkets just outside the town’s entrance, as well as three smaller but reliable grocery stores on its high street, along with a fishmonger, butcher, and an excellent daily farmer’s market inside the urban core.

Parking is also refreshingly easy to find. There’s a large parking lot right in the centre, just before the main park, and there’s a second roomy backup lot by the bus station. Even on busy summer evenings you’ll almost always find a spot without circling for long. A gas station is conveniently positioned just outside town as well, so driving here never feels like a hassle.

Jelsa has its own pharmacy and is less than five minutes from an emergency room, which is itself a twenty minute helicopter ride from Split. If the need for stitches or any other medical care should arise, you’re in good hands.

The heart of Jelsa's social life is the town square, “Pjaca”, situated below the parish church. This beautiful and central location is a popular spot for both locals and tourists to meet, enjoy coffee or ice cream, and soak in the relaxed atmosphere.

Jelsa was founded in the 14th century as a port for the village ofPitve, and is first mentioned in statutes from 1331. Jelsa's development from a small fishing and agricultural settlement to a shipbuilding and maritime centre peaked in the 19th century, a period reflected in its architecture.

A pivotal historical event for Jelsa occurred during the Cyprus War in the latter half of the 16th century, when Turkish naval forces invaded the island. Unlike other towns, Jelsa mounted significant resistance, commemorated by the fortified parish church of Saints Fabian and Sebastien, which later received a neo-Renaissance façade in honour of the 19th century wedding of Austrian emperor Franz Josef I and empress Elizabeth. The town's historical core also features a Baroque chapel of St. John from the 17th century, surrounded by a square that has remained unchanged since its construction between the 17th and 19th centuries.

If you're fortunate enough to find yourself heading to Jelsa, start by heading to the island of Hvar. Many people often mix up Hvar Town with Hvar Island. Hvar Town (‘Grad Hvar’ in Croatian) is renowned worldwide as a hub of upscale hedonism, located on the island’s southwestern coast. In contrast, Hvar Island is a sizable landmass in the southern Croatian archipelago, roughly three times the size of Manhattan.

Jelsa is a small, picturesque town in Croatia, on the northern coast of Hvar Island, close to the geographic centre. It’s the third largest town on the island: the other two being Hvar and Stari Grad, which is known for its sailing and understated luxury (highlighted on the map below).

The nearest major city to the island of Hvar is Split, itself a major tourist attraction. Split has an airport, rail and bus stations, and a ferry port, all serving numerous regional and international destinations. Rail, bus, and ferry are within a stone’s throw of each other, near the city’s historic core.

Split Airport is thirty minutes outside of town. Those arriving at Split Airport can grab a ride on the inexpensive public bus or take an Uber to the port. From there, you can take a car ferry or catamaran to Hvar Island. Read our full guide on how to get to Hvar.

For those who can’t be doing with the additional to-ing and fro-ing, private transfers are available. This usually involves a driver meeting you at Split Airport to drive you to Split port, followed by a speedboat directly to Jelsa. Private transfers are of course more expensive than public catamarans, but can be well worth it in certain situations. For example, we advise families coming directly to Hvar from the USA or Australia to book a private transfer, because most will have already endured a long overnight flight to Croatia. The additional transit time spent getting to Split central, waiting for the boat, and then the ride over to the island can be too much, especially for children, and set a wonderful holiday off on the wrong foot.

It can also make sense to hire a private transfer if one’s flight arrives very late or early to Split and would otherwise mandate a hotel room. With a private boat, you can be in Jelsa in an hour, rather than spending the night in a hotel in Split, then going through another round of transit the following day.

Of course, if you are a Hvar Away guest, making arrangements for your private transfer(s) will be taken care of by our dedicated team member assigned as your concierge.

Getting to the town of Jelsa as a pedestrian is easy and inexpensive. Just book a ticket with the national ferry carrier Jadrolinija to the port of Jelsa. However, you will see that the catamaran connecting Split to Jelsa runs only once each day in the afternoon. So it’s likely that, because of when your plane lands, you’ll need to take a catamaran to a different port on Hvar Island. Stari Grad and Hvar are serviced by numerous daily catamarans. Jelsa is approximately a 15-minute taxi ride from Stari Grad, and 30 minutes from Hvar Town.

You will see both ferries and catamarans offered to Stari Grad, although in peak season, there’s only one catamaran line from Stari Grad to Split (and vice versa), while there are five daily ferries connecting the two towns. Catamarans are faster, taking only an hour, and they only transport pedestrians. Ferries take two hours, they are a lot bigger, and they carry vehicles as well as pedestrians. If you are prone to seasickness, the ferry may treat you better. In good weather, you hardly feel the movement of the boat, if at all. Both catamarans and ferries have cafes with snacks and beverages, as well as bathrooms.

Catamarans sometimes sell out in July and August and ticket lines can be long, so it never hurts to buy your ticket online a day in advance. Board your catamaran a half hour before departure to grab a good seat. Catamarans always have restrooms and canteens with snacks, espresso drinks, and beverages.

The one port you may wish to avoid is Sućuraj. It’s a lovely little town, but getting from there to Jelsa by car takes over an hour with the first half along a nerve-jolting road, which sometimes narrows to a single lane with unprotected drop-offs. Of course, if adrenaline driving is your thing, then you now know where to go.

If you are renting a car on the mainland of Croatia or driving from elsewhere in Europe, then you will need to take one of the several ferries which connect Split with the port of Stari Grad each day, which costs around €40 for standard size cars. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. As mentioned above, catamarans only carry passengers, not cars. Once you arrive in the Stari Grad, the drive to Jelsa is a 10-15 minute breeze.

Alternatively, if you are driving from Dubrovnik or other points south of Split, it can make sense to take the car ferry which sails from Drvenik to Sućuraj on the eastern tip of Hvar Island. You will have an adventurous drive, but can save considerable time compared to driving all the way up to Split, waiting for the ferry, and then taking the two-hour boat ride.

In general, it is wise to book car tickets a few days in advance, and to park your car in the waiting queue for the boat an hour early, because these spots do routinely sell out in the summer.

Jelsa has a lovely marina protected by three breakwaters, and offers water, electricity, showers, rubbish disposal, and WC facilities. There are 54 moorings for yachts, motor yachts, and catamarans, split between the northern and southern sides of the port.

Like other anchorages on Hvar's northern coast, this marina is susceptible to winds from the north, particularly the infamous “bura”. If you plan to tie up here, be sure to call ahead to check for availability and suitable weather conditions.

If you aren't swimming at least once a day while on Hvar, you're missing out on the Adriatic’s remarkable health benefits and, more importantly, its profound tranquillity. Fortunately, Jelsa is surrounded by excellent beaches, so a refreshing dip is always just a few minutes away.

As a note, there are no private beaches in Croatia. Beaches are considered a shared natural treasure, belonging to everyone. While ‘hotel beaches’ are always open to the public, their amenities might not be.

On the northern side (to your left if you are standing facing the water at the bridge connecting the two seaside promenades of Jelsa), there are three beaches to mention. Here they are, in order of walking distance:

Follow the promenade along the historic core of Jelsa (on your right side if you are standing facing the water at the bridge), past the cafe bars and restaurants, and you will reach the following beaches on Jelsa’s southern side:

Beaches further west towards Vrboska can be reached by car, but it’s much easier and heaps more fun to get there on a boat. Here are two not to miss:

Looking for more Hvar beach inspiration? Read our detailed guide to Hvar’s best beaches.

Jelsa Municipal Museum is housed in a late 19th century building, the family home of the artist Juraj Dobrović, located on St. Ivan Square in the centre of town. The museum showcases exhibits that reveal the life of a middle-class family and social life in Dalmatia at the beginning of the 20th century. The Dobrović home hosts a culturally significant collection of graphics, pictures, and reliefs donated by Juraj Dobrović, whose work subtly reflects Pythagorean principles. The museum is open daily from 10am to 12.30pm and 6.30pm to 9pm throughout the summer.

Jelsa’s public spaces double as an open-air gallery, celebrating the town’s heritage through sculpture. In the peaceful Perivoj park, two bronze figures stand as tributes to local legacy: Captain Nikola Duboković statue, honored by Ivan Rendić, a sculptor from Brač Island, for his leadership during Jelsa’s modernisation, and composer Antun Dobronić, captured in bronze by Slavomir Drinković.

Down on the waterfront, a beloved donkey statue by local sculptor Ivan Škrmeta pays tribute to the hardworking animals that once carried the weight of Dalmatia.

Nearby, Kuzma Kovačić’s Cross-Bearer’s Memorial stands as a solemn and dignified nod to Jelsa’s centuries-old 'Za Križen' procession, recognised by UNESCO. Together, these works of art reflect the soul of the town: its history, labour, faith, and talent.

The Church of the Assumption of St. Mary is a picturesque 13th century castle church located near the Pjaca (main square) in the centre of Jelsa. First mentioned in the Hvar Statute of 1331, it was expanded and fortified in the 16th century for defence against the Turks. Originally a Romanesque or early Gothic church, it served as the meeting place for the brotherhood of St. Fabijan and Sebastijan.

Renamed the Church of the Assumption of Mary in 2000, it features the notable painting 'The Virgin Mary and the Martyrdom of Fabian and Sebastian' by P. de Costera.

The church endured a major fire in the late 18th century, leading to the loss of a polyptych by Paolo Veronese. Subsequently, a beautifully decorated marble altar was erected, with further enhancements over the years, including a statue of Our Lady. The presbytery was later painted by Bellotti. In addition to its main altar, the church houses six other beautiful altars, including a valuable wooden triptych and a marble altar with a statue of Our Lady of the Rosary.

Arguably the town’s prettiest chapel is that of St. John, tucked away inside the cobbled streets of Jelsa’s historic core. This beautiful 17th century octagonal church features Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements, making it a cultural landmark not to be missed. Surrounded by typical Croatian stone houses, the entire square exudes a romantic charm.

Hvar's fascinating wine history dates back over 2,000 years to the arrival of the Ancient Greeks in 384 BC, and places Jelsa at the centre of this rich tradition. Jelsa once served as a transport hub for its quality wines across Europe. Historically, around 5,700 hectares of vineyard were cultivated until the phylloxera outbreak devastated the industry, compounded by unfavourable taxes from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which led to mass emigration.

Today, only 280 hectares remain, a mere 5% of the vineyard area from the 19th century's peak. Despite this reduction, Jelsa still boasts some outstanding quality wines.

While in Jelsa, be sure to stop for a private tasting in Ivo Duboković’s candlelit cellar. Ivo is a mad genius and restless experimenter. Building on centuries of family wine-making tradition, he makes wine from organically grown, hand-picked clusters and lets it ferment with wild yeast, without additives – and he engages with the process as a scientist and artist, using wine as a medium to explore flavours and possibilities, while sampling the results of hundreds of past experiments. A tasting in his cellar, atmospherically lit by candles, will take you through half a dozen or more micro-batches that this multi-generational vinarija makes by hand.

One of Croatia's most charismatic and renowned winemakers, Andro Tomić, became a prominent figure during Croatia's accession into the EU. He gained international media attention – including from BBC, AFP, and The Daily Telegraph – for his efforts to protect the Dalmatian dessert wine, Prošek, from being banned by EU bureaucrats appeasing the Italian Prosecco lobby.

Tomić even addressed the European Parliament in French, a language he learned while studying the wine trade in France. The Tomić Winery, with its Romanesque theme, charming ambiance, and excellent wines (featuring both indigenous Hvar grapes and international varieties), offer one of the premier wine tasting experiences on Hvar.

The Jelsa Wine Festival is a three-day event held during the last weekend of August. The festival is known for its lively atmosphere, often marking the end of summer in Jelsa, as the town seems to quieten down after the final day of the festival. Visitors can then savour the peaceful and serene atmosphere of September, one of the best months to experience the area.

Alongside the great wines from producers across the island and beyond, the festival offers a rich array of activities and entertainment. Highlights include sports competitions such as a lively water polo match, rowing contests, and international regattas. A special attraction is the pole-climbing competition, where participants vie to retrieve a whole smoked ham perched atop a 10-metre pole. The festival concludes with the announcement of the year's finest wines.

Those fortunate enough to attend often leave Hvar with cherished memories that extend beyond just the beaches and cuisine – they also include the delightful surprise of discovering the island's exceptional and varied wines.

Read our detailed guide to wine on Hvar.

Hvar Republic: handmade jewellery, delicate accessories, thoughtful souvenirs, and hand-knitted clutch bags. Many stores now claim to sell handmade or local products. Hvar Republic really does, so don’t miss this one to take a piece of Hvar home with you.

Papelu: one of the best-curated kids’ shops in all of Dalmatia, with adorably designed and exceptional quality kids’ clothing and toys. The owner makes everything herself, by hand, and you can feel the love and skill in every item on the shelves.

Little ones will love the adorable Mini Disco, a dance party just for them, held on Sunday and Wednesday evenings all summer long in the park. There is also a Dance of the Sails in June, where festively lit historic sailboats take over the port.

Kino Mediteran runs kid-friendly, English-language films on its outdoor screen throughout the summer months.

Head over one afternoon to Adventure Park for some great family fun between sunbathing and swimming. Against the backdrop of pine forest on the north side of the town, the park provides a range of activities suitable for all ages and skill levels, such as ziplining through the treetops, navigating rope courses, and testing their agility on suspended bridges and swings. The list goes on with paintball, climbing walls, battle archery, trampolines, and bubble football. A guaranteed unforgettable day of fun for little (and larger!) ones.

Jelsa feels a world away from the raucousness of Hvar Town, yet it’s far from dull or quiet in the evenings. For visitors whose days of late night revelry are mostly in the past, or who just want a mellower change of pace, Jelsa strikes a great balance.

Here are our top two picks for a laidback evening:

Jelsa and its gentle pockets of coastline can be savoured in a couple of lazy days, yet it also makes a perfect home base for exploring the rest of the island. Quiet inland villages, secret northern bays, and lavender-scented hills are all within easy reach.

We always carve out time for a short drive to Stari Grad (10–15 minutes away), where the ancient Greek field system earned UNESCO stripes and the cobbled streets around this ancient harbour town still feel like it’s 1850. And don’t miss the mountain hamlets of Pitve and Vrisnik: stone lanes, vineyard terraces, family-run konobas, and the kind of authentic, slow-paced beauty most visitors never discover.

Savour Croatia’s legendary cafe culture. If the sun is shining, the terraces at every cafe in Jelsa’s square and along the waterfront will be full of people: men and women, from babies to salty old fishermen, all sipping a 'kava' and having a chat. In Croatia, nothing on earth is more urgent than pausing the day to catch up with friends, family, and half the village. The local answer to what could possibly matter more? 'Bome ništa' (absolutely nothing)!

Prošperin is our usual cafe of choice, with its stunning view over the bay, great coffee, and attentive staff.

Some claim that Jelsa boasts the finest ice cream in Dalmatia. The tradition of Jelsa's ice cream dates back over 60 years to the arrival of three Albanian brothers in 1962. They initially rented a space on the first floor near the main parking square and have since expanded, now owning three out of the seven cafes located on the square, including Jelsa Gelateria Ice Caffe, which has a mouthwatering selection of cakes and pastries inside. For ice cream enthusiasts, Jelsa is undoubtedly a paradise of flavours and delights.

We recommend not only sticking to the parlours on the entrance to the square, but also making your way a bit further down to aRoma. They serve large scoops of premium artisanal gelato with a huge selection of unique flavours. You won’t regret it!

No visit to Hvar is complete without a first-rate seafood dinner, so make sure you don’t leave Jelsa before trying local fish. If you enjoy cooking while on vacation, you can procure it through local fishermen at the local fishmarket. You can find fresh, wild fish each morning and make yourself the healthiest possible meal at your island home. Dalmatian cuisine prepares fish simply, with just olive oil and a garnish of garlic, lemon, and parsley to let the incredible flavour and texture shine through.

If you prefer the pleasure of eating out, here are our favourite spots in Jelsa:

Whatever kind of accommodation you’re looking for, Jelsa can deliver. A simple yet cosy apartment, a hotel, or a private villa that feels like your own slice of the island.

Deciding between the three comes down to the simplest of questions: your budget, your travel style, and just how generously you feel like treating yourself for all the hard work over the year.

It’s fair to say that hotels have never been Jelsa’s strongest card, certainly not when compared to the glitz of Hvar Town or the polished and heritage offerings in Stari Grad.

Back in the mid-century Adriatic tourism boom, Jelsa built a handful of modest, affordable properties rather than grand resorts. The venerable Hotel Jadran led the charge, welcoming guests who came for the pine-shaded bays and easy village rhythm rather than marble lobbies and spa menus.

Jelsa today still has only a couple of operational hotels (both under the Jelsa Resort umbrella) and keeps its accommodation scene deliberately small and unpretentious.

If your heart is set on a five-star luxury hotel, look elsewhere. If you’re after genuine character, quiet mornings, and a five-minute stroll to both beach and harbour, Jelsa could be spot-on. Current room rates at the two open hotels start around €70 in shoulder season and climb to €135-170 at peak.

Perched on a wooded hill overlooking the Adriatic, Hotel Hvar offers panoramic sea views and a relaxed atmosphere. Guests can enjoy amenities such as a seawater swimming pool, tennis courts, and a children's play area. The hotel provides various room types, including sea-facing rooms with balconies, ensuring a comfortable stay for families and couples alike. Its proximity to the town centre and nearby beaches makes it a convenient choice for visitors.

Situated along the pine-shaded promenade just outside the town centre, Fontana Resort offers simple apartment-style accommodations ideal for families and longer stays. The resort features outdoor swimming pools and is within walking distance to the beach, providing a budget-friendly option for travellers seeking a laidback experience.

For the fullest, most authentic island experience, renting a villa on Hvar is hard to beat. Complete privacy and generous space for everyone to spread out, a villa lets you slip into genuine island rhythm in a way hotels simply can’t match. Wake to birdsong in the garden instead of breakfast buffets, shop the morning market for dinner ingredients, and feel the pulse of real Hvar life all around you. A villa also offers outstanding value for larger groups and families.

Hvar Away offers a carefully chosen collection of villas in and around the town of Jelsa: some tucked right into the heart of town, others strung along the quiet coastal ribbon of the bay. Many come with sweeping sea views, a beach practically at the garden gate, classic architecture, private pools (indoor or out), and terraces made for long, lazy evenings.

Jelsa really is one of those rare, easy-going towns that feels made for families and groups of friends. We hope this guide has helped to outline your stay or visit in this quietly charming corner of Hvar Island. Be sure to save this guide; keep it close for instant reference whenever you’re in Jelsa and need a beach, a restaurant, or a shady square.

If you’d like a hand shaping your Hvar Island escape, just reach out to us, we are never far away.