Wine on Hvar – A GUIDE TO THE ISLAND’S TASTINGS & TOURS

In spite of this incredible story, wines from Hvar Island – and Croatia more broadly – are something of a rarity beyond national borders. Dalmatian wines are often overshadowed by more well-known wine regions in Europe, such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Tuscany. Additionally, Dalmatian wines can be difficult to find outside of Croatia as many wineries in the region are small and family-owned, and may not have the resources to export their wines on a large scale.

Many of Hvar’s best grapes are grown on the south side of the island, where limestone soil and double solar supply – from the sky and from the sun’s reflection off the sea – deliver a uniquely powerful fruit. These fields are so steep that machines for managing vines cannot be used. Every sun-struck, laborious metre needs to be tended, trimmed, and harvested by hand.

Many esteemed winemakers from Dalmatia use old-fashioned techniques, such as fermenting the wine in open-top barrels and ageing it in large oak casks, which can produce wines that are more rustic and less polished than those made with modern winemaking methods.

In other words, it is rare to encounter a “grocery store chardonnay” at a Dalmatian vineyard, although one or two more commercial producers are moving in that direction.

Several winemakers are experimenting with natural fermentation or have always used the technique. Natural fermentation means that wines are created without the acceleration and predictability of commercial enhancements. You can think of this as the difference between sourdough bread and bread made from packaged yeast; both are lovely, but the natural method results in a uniqueness and depth of flavour that more standardised products cannot match.

This all adds up to an unparalleled tasting session for people who love wine and winemakers. In most tasting rooms, you will speak with the winemaker himself or a close family member. You will try however many wines you like in a leisurely environment – no timed tastings, no formality. And if you choose, you will walk away with an armful of superb bottles at a very reasonable price.

We can more or less guarantee that your biggest frustration will be finding space in your luggage for all of your delicious finds. On Hvar, wine is as it should be: passionate, creative, unpretentious, and natural.

There are about 100 different grape cultivars on island Hvar. These are some of our favourites, including native varieties and the most popular styles.

Plavac Mali is a red grape variety native to Croatia, primarily grown in the southern Dalmatian region, particularly on the Pelješac peninsula and here on the island of Hvar. The name 'Plavac Mali' translates to 'little blue', referring to the small, dark berries of the grape.

Plavac Mali is a cross between two other grape varieties, Crljenak Kaštelanski (also known as Zinfandel or Primitivo) and Dobričić, both also indigenous to Croatia. The grape is known for its high tannins, producing full-bodied wines with intense flavours of dark fruits, such as blackberry, black cherry, and plum. The wines also often have herbal and spicy notes, as well as a distinct minerality.

Different vinification processes and terroirs of Hvar Island allow local winemakers to create diverse Plavac labels ranging from rosés and light reds, all the way to robust, full-bodied reds, oak-aged to perfection with 15-18% alcohol. These wines are ideal for cellaring and heirloom sharing to the next generation of wine lovers.

One of the rarer grape varieties on Hvar is Drnekuša. It is native to the island and has been grown here since time immemorial, mainly on Stari Grad Plain and the area known as Vorh (the island’s uplands). The plant needs deep fertile soils and has a thin skin and is vulnerable to fungus, so it must be carefully tended. The local dialect name for this grape is darnekuša.

Drnekuša is a lighter wine than Plavac with a deep ruby colour and aromas of strawberry and ripe cherry. It is sometimes made into a dessert wine called prošek or blended with Plavac. Ivo Duboković in Jelsa offers a 100% Drnekuša label, “Laganini”, popularly called a breakfast wine to show its unbelievable lightness. You can read more about Duboković below in our list of favourite winemakers.

Bogdanuša is a white grape variety grown primarily on Hvar, particularly around the towns of Jelsa and Vrboska. The name 'Bogdanuša' means 'gift from God' in Croatian, and it is considered to be one of the most important and unique grape varieties of the region, playing an important role in religious feast days historically.

Bogdanuša is a very old grape variety, and its exact origins are not known. It is a low-yielding grape, which produces small clusters of round, greenish-yellow berries. The grape is known for its fresh, floral aromas and flavours of citrus, apple, and peach. It is also known for its bright acidity, which gives it a refreshing and lively character.

Bogdanuša is typically used to produce dry white wines, although it can also be used to produce sweet wine, traditionally called prošek. The wines made from Bogdanuša are often light-bodied and crisp, with a delicate texture and a mineral finish. They are best enjoyed young, although some high-quality examples can age for several years.

In 2025, Tomić Winery created a sparkling Bogdanuša produced using the traditional Champagne method. Development spanned several years, and the label received strong positive feedback upon release.

Pošip is one of Dalmatia’s most celebrated white grape varieties, originally from the island of Korčula, where it was first discovered growing wild. Over time, the grape spread across the Dalmatian coast and islands – and although Hvar is not its birthplace, it has found a very comfortable home here. Today, you’ll see Pošip in both professional vineyards and in tiny family plots where locals produce just enough wine for themselves, their neighbours, and the occasional lucky visitor.

Pošip is known for its expressive aromatics: ripe apricot, Mediterranean herbs, fig leaf, citrus zest, and a characteristic salty-mineral backbone that reflects the sun and stone of the Dalmatian terroir. It’s naturally fuller-bodied than Bogdanuša, with usually higher alcohol, rich texture, and a long, savoury finish.

While indigenous varieties remain the island’s heart, Pošip has earned a loyal following among local families, small-scale growers, and restaurants. It is, simply put, a reliable favourite – the kind of wine you open when the table is full, the sea is shimmering, and you want something unmistakably Dalmatian.

It’s worth recollection that, on Hvar, Pošip was traditionally planted along vineyard edges as a protective barrier. The idea was to sacrifice Pošip to pests and diseases, preserving the better grapes in the central rows. We don’t know if grape varieties have feelings, but if they do, Pošip must be proud of his rags to riches story.

Maraština, also called Rukatac, Krizol, Višana, is a white wine native to Dalmatia, although it is identical to the Tuscan Malvasia Bianca Lunga or Malvasia del Chianti. Rarely seen now, Maraština used to be fairly ubiquitous, but has in recent years been eclipsed by the extremely popular Pošip as the predominant local white.

Croatian winemakers have taken up the challenge to resurrect Maraština, and Ivo Duboković has produced a unique and successful orange wine with a macerated and unfiltered maraština, obtained without controlled boiling temperature and after a longer ageing process.

Duboković’s “Moja M” is actually the first orange wine produced on Hvar. It originated when his mentor, Ivan Barbić – a master of wine – tasted a long-macerated Maraština from Duboković’s father’s cellar and remarked, “You have a nice big white wine here.” - Since then, Duboković has produced orange Maraština for the last 17 years.

Duboković also crafts an extreme-maceration version, with skins in contact for over a year. This yields a wine robust enough to take on even game-heavy dishes – such as boar-stuffed peppers – typically reserved for medium-bodied reds.

Prč is another indigenous white grape, originating from Sućuraj on the island’s far eastern tip. This wine has a reputation as an aphrodisiac, and was such a hit with the Viennese during Hvar’s heyday as a wine exporter that the Austro-Hungarian Empire introduced a direct ferry connection between Sućuraj and Trieste in order to meet the thirst for Prč.

The winemaker Vjekoslav Vujnović heroically rescued Prč from near oblivion in the 1990s, when he scoured the abandoned vineyards of Sućuraj for seedlings. He now has some three to four thousand vines under cultivation.

Vjekoslav still spends his days in vineyards. The island is whispering that he’s working on saving another indigenous grape from Sućuraj, this time a red grape called Ružica (little rose). Today, Vujnović Winery is led by Juraj, who succeeded his father upon retirement. Yet visitors to the winery will often encounter Vjekoslav, the man who saved Prč and gave wine lovers a compelling reason to explore the island’s lesser-visited side.

Other professional and amateur winemakers have likewise recognised the value of Prč, ensuring its presence in more vineyards of Hvar with each passing season.

Prč has a golden colour and is named for the compressed, spiky shape of its grape clusters. It has a specific aroma of muscat or nutmeg and a strong flavour.

Because wine and winemaking play such a central role in the history and ecology of Hvar, we particularly appreciate stewards of that legacy who eschew chemical insecticides, fungicides, and herbicides – the use of which has caused significant damage to wildlife and human health here in recent years.

These are the wine tasting rooms of some environmentally responsible and truly gifted winemakers that our guests love to spend time with, and who provide some of what we believe are the best tasting experiences on Hvar.

Enjoy a tasting in the inland village of Vrbanj with the Plančić brothers, whose wines are crafted with a passion bordering on obsession, in the most laid back setting you can possibly imagine. You will feel like you’ve just stopped by your friend’s back porch, who just happens to serve up home-cured olives and a flight of wildly inventive, consistently palate-pleasing wines. Plančić Pharos Grand Cru is their top wine, yet they also craft one of the only two 100% Drnekuša labels in existence.

Ivo Duboković, the steward of Dubokovic Winery in Jelsa, is a mad genius and restless experimenter. He makes the only other 100% Drnekuša label globally, with his label made from Drnekuša growing in the highest elevated vineyard in Croatia.

A wine tasting experience in his cellar, atmospherically lit by candles, will take you through half a dozen or more micro-batches that this multi-generational winery makes by hand. Medvid is considered as his best wine, yet for light summer sipping, the No.11 – a Duboković rosé from Plavac and Drnekuša – goes down like air.

Zlatan Otok, founded by the legendary Zlatan Plenković, is one of Croatia’s most iconic wineries. Based in the coastal village of Sveta Nedjelja, the winery is famous for its bold Plavac Mali and for one of the most unique tasting spaces in Europe: Bilo Idro, a wine bar and tasting room built partly underwater, with windows looking directly into the Adriatic.

The estate’s flagship wines, Zlatan Plavac and Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru, are among Croatia’s benchmark reds, known for their layers of dark fruit, Mediterranean herbs, and signature island salinity. The winery also produces elegant Pošip, crisp rosé, and several distinctive white and special cuvées.

A visit to the Lacman Family Winery is a necessity for those seeking creative natural wines. Lacman made a name for himself on Hvar as one of the few wineries that recognised the potential of extended-maceration white wines before they became a fast-growing global trend. Known today as orange, natural, or amber wines, Lacman and other local winemakers make them simply because that’s how their ancestors vinified white grapes.

Labels from Lacman like Friška feature playful drawings from the family’s young daughters. Yet, ask a red wine lover their favourite Lacman wine, and they will likely name Esenca.

Lacman might offer the most dramatic tasting experience on the island, in a veranda under an almost abandoned village above the town of Stari Grad, with panoramic views stretching out across the bay.

Harvest timing on Hvar varies with climate, grape variety, location, and the winemaker’s judgement. Pošip ripens earliest, allowing some harvests by mid-to-late August. Most other varieties follow 10-15 days later, with picking typically beginning in September. Unlike experiences you may have had in Portugal or elsewhere, immersive grape-stomping or vineyard participation is uncommon. Dalmatian plots are small, scattered, and distant from wineries, so visitors rarely assist with picking.

In late September however, crates of freshly harvested grapes and processing equipment often appear outside winery doors. Tasting the grapes as a fruit before sipping on their fermented liquid version adds a memorable note to the whole experience.

Mild weather, blooming vines, and fewer tourists make spring ideal for exploring Hvar’s wineries. The landscape is lush and green. Wineries are open for tastings in April and offer a higher chance of a private experience since the island is still coming to life. By May and June, top wineries are heavily booked. Particularly in May, some travellers avoid the still-cool sea, so they prefer to spend their spring vacation sipping on wine. For that reason, we recommend calling and booking your tasting in advance.

While hot and crowded, summer offers long days perfect for leisurely wine tours, though be sure to book tastings in advance. Morning wine tastings, at 10 or 11am, are very popular on Hvar during peak season. Visitors stop by before lunch and the beach to pick their elixir for the day. And on an island where breakfast wine is actually a thing, it’s never too early for a glass.

A wine tasting after lunch or before dinner is a peak Hvar experience, and the island has many wineries to choose from. Options vary by the number of wines, whether guided or self-service, and if any accompanying food is included. Regardless of your winery choice, we recommend calling in advance to book your tasting (and check if they are open: life on a Croatian island is more relaxed than you might first think).

Organised wine tours provide comfortable, air-conditioned transportation between your accommodation and the wineries, along with an expert guide.

Explore vineyards by bicycle, either with a self-guided route through the island’s wineries, or an organised bike tour that includes a transfer from your accommodation and a local guide.

If you are a guest at a Hvar Away villa, enjoy an in-villa cooking class experience where you can combine your delicious traditional meal with wine education from your local chef.

Purchase directly from producers for best prices and access to limited releases. Many wineries offer shipping services – within the EU direct delivery is standard, but for delivery to the US or UK, shipping is handled by a third party service to ensure your wine arrives in perfect condition.

Viola in Hvar Town offers curated selections and expert advice, and offers shipping within the EU.

Hvar Wine is what happens when you combine the skills and effort of a Croatian hotelier and wine expert with more than 20 years of experience with a Swedish lady determined to make Croatian wine more internationally famous. Sara Rasmussen and Zoran Pejović still work on their mission: to make hand-picked Hvar labels available to everyone who desires them.

Check your country's regulations for bringing wine home. EU residents can transport wine freely within the Union, whereas American guests can bring up to three bottles of wine in a checked suitcase.