Vrbanj – THE 2026 TRAVEL GUIDE

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Vrbanj is a quintessential Dalmatian village with ancient shipbuilding and agricultural roots, but a visit here goes beyond its rich history. The village suits guests who prize relaxation, yet its convenient location near the island's main towns makes it an excellent base for anyone keen to venture out of their private oasis occasionally without excessive effort. Here are our recommendations.

Those in the know appreciate Croatia's rich and varied wine scene. It may come as a pleasant surprise that the small village of Vrbanj boasts two particularly accomplished contributors to it.

The setting at Plančić Brothers Winery is delightfully casual, but the wines are anything but. The founding brothers are true wine obsessives, deeply committed to the craft and capable of building phenomenal wines from the ground up. Established in 1919, Plančić uses only indigenous grape varieties from the island of Hvar, and their wines are interestingly different from the ubiquitous Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons that you may be so used to elsewhere.

The atmosphere is fantastically laidback. You will feel like you’ve just stopped by your friend’s back porch, who just happens to serve up home-cured olives and a flight of wildly inventive, consistently palate-pleasing wines.

Brothers Luka and Milko Pavičić, like many children on Hvar Island, grew up working in agriculture. Their family has tended vines for generations, a tradition shared across the island. In 2019, however, they chose to build on that heritage by bottling and selling their first commercial wines.

Six years on, that decision has proved to be the right one. In 2025, the Pavičić brothers took home the Sabatina award for best Pošip, which is a remarkable feat considering the competition is typically dominated by producers from Korčula, the variety's native home.

Alongside their prize-winning whites, the brothers produce robust, full-bodied reds, including one that reaches a formidable 18.8% alcohol. Their small winery in Vrbanj merits a visit, if only to satisfy curiosity about such distinctive drops from this quiet corner of the island.

You might be aware that “konoba” is the Croatian word for a traditional tavern or small restaurant serving regional, traditional cuisine and wine. But there is a reason we have listed Konoba Bratanić as an experience to do in Vrbanj, not just as somewhere to eat.

In the village of Vrbanj, Konoba Bratanić is not a restaurant, nor simply a wine tasting room, nor any other type of catering establishment. It is a place for storytelling, where the depths of past Mediterranean eras are brought to life.

The konoba was an essential part of each traditional Dalmatian stone house; the place where the wine was made and stored, where tools were kept when not out working in the fields, and where families and friends sat around a table of an evening to enjoy a glass or two with a shared song.

Miki Bratanić, the passionate owner of Konoba Bratanić, not only maintains and operates this authentic konoba, but also expresses the spirit of konoba through his poetry and writings. He has even published a book, filled with poems, stories, and photographs, using local dialect to capture the region's previously harsh yet rewarding lifestyle, and the symbolism of the warm refuge of the konoba after a day's hard labour.

Preserving its original appearance and purpose, Konoba Bratanić showcases objects related to viticulture and winemaking, reflecting the economic backbone of Dalmatia for millennia. Recognised by the Ministry of Culture as a cultural asset in 2014, the konoba's collection includes 87 catalogued items including various wine presses, barrels, tools for vineyard and olive grove work, and containers for wine, prosecco, and brandy. While many traditional houses in Dalmatia have evolved over time, Konoba Bratanić remains a testament to the enduring cultural practices of the region, with most of the items still in current use today.

This one-of-a-kind experience is available to Hvar Away villa guests, offering an authentic evening in which you will taste not only fantastic wines, but the very cultural essence of Hvar.

Few visitors to Hvar Island manage to resist heading straight for the nearest beach. Just because Vrbanj is an inland village does not mean you’ll have a hard time getting to the beach. The nearest beaches lie around the neighbouring towns of Vrboska and Jelsa on the north coast, both of which are 5-10 minute drives away. You will find a good selection of options there, from lively spots with beach bars to quieter coves.

Alternatively, take a longer drive down the valley to the beach for a dip on one of the south side’s idyllic coves. Hvar’s southern coast is the island at its most dramatic and intoxicating. Sheer cliffs plunge into glowing turquoise water, hidden coves appear around every inlet, and the beaches (almost all smooth pebbles) rank among the finest in Croatia. There are plenty to choose from, including (from closest to furthest): Skalinada, Petarčica, Ivan Dolac, Jagodna, and Zogon.

To reach the island’s southern side, follow the country road from Vrbanj east further inland, passing through the village of Pitve until you come to the Old Pitve Tunnel. Carved out mostly by local men in the 1960s, the 1.4km tunnel is single-lane and unlit. This being Dalmatia, there is a wine cellar inside, just to the left of the entrance from the Pitve side, not that we would encourage you to pause and inspect.

Once you emerge from the tunnel, you will be greeted by a glorious view of the sea shimmering below. But don’t get too carried away, and be sure that your brakes are in good order. A few steep switchbacks await you as you navigate down to the shore. Then, drive along the coast road until you reach your beach of choice.

For more insights into Hvar’s gorgeous coves, read our guide to the best beaches on Hvar.

An 8-minute drive from Vrbanj brings you to Stari Grad, the oldest town on Hvar Island. It serves as a gentle reminder that a touch of civilization lies just beyond the tranquillity of the village. Still, Stari Grad remains far calmer than many spots on the island.

You can easily lose an hour or two wandering the narrow stone streets lined with centuries-old houses. Along the way, numerous shops and galleries display local crafts and artwork, many pieces worth considering as a meaningful way to bring a slice of Hvar home with you.

The town is also largely flat, which makes it much easier to get around than Hvar Town's steeper lanes. This suits older visitors or families with young children particularly well.

A visit to Stari Grad would feel incomplete without exploring the remarkable Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest continuously cultivated agricultural landscapes on the planet. This vast expanse appears almost unchanged from 2,400 years ago, when Greek settlers from the island of Paros arrived and parcelled the land – known as the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) – into a precise grid of large estates.

Today, the Plain remains a living mosaic of vineyards, olive groves and dry-stone walls, tended much as they were in antiquity. It stands as a quiet testament to enduring human ingenuity and harmony with the land, well worth a leisurely cycle or drive to appreciate its scale and subtle beauty.

A quaint former fishing village just 4 kilometres from Vrbanj, again under ten minutes by car, Vrboska consists of narrow canals lined by stone houses and an intriguing fortress church. The village is crossed by pretty bridges, giving it a distinctly Venetian charm.

Despite its modest size, Vrboska provides ample entertainment for a straightforward day trip from Vrbanj. There is a well-equipped dive centre, a marina favoured by sailors, and a windsurfing school. Rentals are available for kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and canoes. Nearby you will also find tennis courts, beach volleyball setups, an inflatable water park, and even ping-pong tables.

Families especially appreciate Soline Beach, a generous crescent of fine pebbles with exceptionally clear, shallow water that shelves gradually. It is ideal for young children to paddle and play safely. Pines fringe the shore, offering plenty of natural shade on warmer days. A café and basic facilities are on hand, making it a relaxed and convenient spot for a full morning or afternoon by the water.

Jelsa completes the trio of easily accessible towns from Vrbanj, reached in about five minutes by car. The town has a gentle, almost storybook Mediterranean atmosphere. The historic centre remains compact yet thoroughly inviting, featuring just enough narrow stone streets and small squares to prompt a leisurely wander and a handful of worthwhile photo opportunities. The Church of St John, together with its surrounding square, proves particularly photogenic.

At the heart of town lies a leafy park complete with playgrounds, offering welcome shade even during the peak of summer. It serves as an ideal spot to pause after strolling the promenade, perhaps with an ice cream in hand.

Jelsa also functions as a convenient departure point for the popular boat service to Bol on Brač Island. The early-morning sailing allows plenty of time to explore Bol and its famous Golden Horn Beach, with a return in the late afternoon that leaves you back in Jelsa comfortably in time for a relaxed dinner at one of the excellent harbourfront restaurants.

Vrbanj may be one of the island’s larger villages, but it has never developed hotel accommodation. That hardly means you cannot stay here. Instead, Vrbanj offers a quietly appealing collection of private apartments, characterful holiday homes, and a handful of villas that feel deeply rooted in village life rather than designed for passing crowds.

Hvar Away offers one carefully selected villa in Vrbanj: the delightful Villa Estelle. Hidden away at the end of a long driveway, behind a black iron gate, arrival carries a hint of mystery and intrigue. Step through the gate, however, and the atmosphere changes completely. The property reveals itself as a welcoming private haven, with generous outdoor spaces including a pool, several sun-drenched terraces, and ample room for leisurely alfresco lunches or evening nightcaps beneath the stars.

Inside, Estelle balances light and intimacy beautifully. Entering at kitchen level, you are greeted by a spacious, airy kitchen and dining area, with two bedrooms on the same floor and a master suite above. The real surprise, however, comes when you step down to the living room below, once a traditional konoba cellar. Exposed stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings give the living room a cosy feel, softly dimmed and enveloping like a peaceful cave.

It is the ideal spot to sink into the sofa with Netflix after a day exploring the island or simply lounging by the pool. High walls surround the entire property, ensuring complete privacy. No one can peer in, and no one need know if your idea of activity is resting from a morning of doing very little at all.

Vrbanj is home to only one restaurant, the lovely Konoba Bogo positioned in the heart of the village with a gorgeous atmosphere on its leafy al fresco terrace.

Family-run Bogo is known across the island for its huge and fresh pizza, alongside other Dalmatian delights.

Archaeological discoveries in Vrbanj reveal a history stretching back to Roman times, with remnants of two oil presses and a leisure villa among the finds. The village reached its economic peak in the late 14th and early 15th centuries, thanks largely to its surprising success in shipping and shipbuilding despite its inland position.

By the 15th century, residents began turning their attention seaward, shifting towards fishing and founding a coastal settlement known as 'Vallis Varbagni', which gradually developed into today's Vrboska.

One pivotal episode in Vrbanj's story is the rebellion of 1510-1514, led by local commoner Matija Ivanić. Sparked by demands for fairer governance and an end to noble oppression, the uprising is often seen as an early echo of the ideas that fuelled the French Revolution. Though ultimately quashed, it remains a source of considerable local pride in the villagers' defiant ancestors.

To mark this heritage, the 'Home of Matija Ivanić' stands in the village centre as a tribute to him and the Hvar rebels. Fully renovated in 2021, the building now serves as a functioning kindergarten for local children. The ground floor houses a modest memorial room dedicated to Ivanić, complete with a small ethnographic display.

Today, Vrbanj is a small village with a population of fewer than 500 people, with agriculture still serving as the primary economic activity. Despite this relatively small number of residents, Vrbanj's rich historical legacy continues to be a source of great pride.

If you’re lucky enough that life is leading you to Vrbanj, start by orienting yourself to the island of Hvar. Visitors often mix up Hvar Town with the island itself. Hvar Town (known locally as “Grad Hvar”) is the celebrated southwestern hub, the island’s capital, renowned for its sophisticated and luxurious appeal. The island of Hvar, however, is far larger – a substantial stretch of land in Croatia's southern Dalmatian archipelago, roughly three times the size of Manhattan.

Vrbanj lies inland on Hvar Island, tucked into the northern flank of the island's mountainous ridge. It is one of the quieter settlements, offering a pleasant contrast to the livelier hubs such as Hvar Town, Stari Grad (the island's historical heart and a magnet for sailors), and nearby Jelsa, which is particularly popular with families.

What makes Vrbanj especially appealing is the sense of remoteness it provides, while in truth, you are never far from everyday conveniences or some of the island's finest dining spots.

The most straightforward major gateway to Hvar Island is Split, the vibrant mainland city that easily justifies a visit of its own. Split has an international airport, train and bus stations, and a bustling ferry port, all handily situated close to the atmospheric old town.

Split Airport sits about 30 minutes from the city centre. You can take the airport shuttle bus or a taxi/Uber to the ferry terminal, where you can then board a car ferry (essential if bringing your own vehicle) or a quicker passenger catamaran to the island. Services run to Hvar Town, Stari Grad and, once daily, Jelsa. Both Stari Grad and Jelsa are only a short drive from Vrbanj.

Read our complete guide as to how to get to Hvar for some further pointers.

Reaching Vrbanj without a car is quite straightforward. Simply book a Jadrolinija catamaran ticket from Split to Jelsa, Stari Grad, or Hvar Town. Bear in mind that catamarans to Jelsa and Stari Grad run only once daily in the afternoon, so if your flight lands earlier you may find it more convenient to head to Hvar Town, which enjoys several connections throughout the day.

From whichever port you arrive at, Vrbanj is just a short taxi ride away: around 9 minutes from Stari Grad Port, roughly 12 minutes from Jelsa Port, and about 30 minutes from Hvar Town.

Both car ferries and catamarans serve Stari Grad. In peak season, there is typically one catamaran per day (a pedestrian-only crossing that takes one hour) compared to up to five car ferries (a more leisurely two-hour voyage). The larger ferries tend to be steadier and kinder on those prone to seasickness. Both options feature onboard cafés serving light snacks and drinks, along with restrooms.

Catamarans do sell out in July and August, and queues can build quickly, so reserving online a day or two ahead is advisable. Aim to arrive at least 10 minutes before departure for boarding, though turning up 30 minutes early often secures better seats, as keen passengers frequently form lines well in advance. The crossing is generally pleasant, with weather-related cancellations uncommon in summer, though not impossible.

It is probably best to avoid arriving via Sućuraj unless you have ample time and a fondness for adventure. This pleasant little harbour lies at the eastern tip of Hvar, and the drive to Vrbanj takes well over an hour, much of it along a narrow, twisting road with sharp drops and minimal barriers. If you relish hairpin bends and a touch of excitement, however, it might suit you perfectly. Otherwise, one of the more central ports keeps things considerably simpler.

If you are renting a car on the Croatian mainland or driving your own car from Europe, you will need to take one of the regular Jadrolinija car ferries from Split to Stari Grad. The crossing costs around €40 per vehicle. Once docked in Stari Grad, the drive to Vrbanj is straightforward and pleasantly brief.

Alternatively, if you are coming from Dubrovnik or points south of Split, the Drvenik-Sućuraj ferry can prove more efficient. Though the subsequent drive across the island is winding and scenic (in the most exhilarating sense), it often saves hours compared to heading north to Split, queuing there and enduring the longer two-hour sailing.

In any case, it pays to reserve car ferry tickets a few days ahead during peak season and to join the queue at least an hour before departure. Spaces do sell out regularly in summer, and arriving early avoids any last-minute disappointment.