Svirče – The 2025 travel guide

Svirče is a village whose name carries a touch of legend and a connection to its roots. One popular story traces its name to the first settlers – shepherds from the nearby village of Vrbanj – who arrived singing and playing music. They decided to stay, and the village was named "Svirče", a derivative of the Croatian word “svirati” meaning "to play music".

Another version suggests a more practical origin, linking the name to “svir”, meaning "water source" as the village was established near a small spring that provided much-needed water. Whether inspired by melodies or the necessities of life, Svirče’s name reflects its rich blend of folklore and history.

Svirče has a long tradition of cultivating grapes, olives, and lavender – a heritage that dates back to its earliest settlers. Today, the village has elevated these practices, producing some of the island's finest wines (notably from PZ Svirče, Vina Carić, and Vina Plančić) and exceptional olive oil, processed locally in the Božić family’s modern mill. A visit to Svirče wouldn’t be complete without sampling these rich, authentic flavours.

Svirče’s connection to wine extends beyond its borders to Ivan Dolac and Sveta Nedjelja, two settlements on the island’s southern side originally founded by Svirče inhabitants. These seaside locations, ideal for leisure houses, allowed workers to rest closer to their vineyards, avoiding long journeys home in the pre-vehicle era. Ivan Dolac remains closely tied to Svirče, with many locals spending their summers between the two.

This seasonal rhythm brings a serene and meditative vibe to Svirče, where the soundscape shifts to the hum of crickets and the occasional chime of bicycle bells from cyclists exploring one of the Adriatic’s most scenic routes.

Today, Svirče stands as a vibrant village of around 500 residents, thriving with a unique and dynamic way of life. Unlike many other villages on the island, Svirče’s population is not declining – in fact, it’s flourishing. Young people often return to the village after completing their education, choosing to live and work in their hometown.

The village’s prosperity is driven by its strong agricultural roots, with renowned wine producers and the Božić olive oil mill contributing to its growth and success. Svirče stands out as one of the most prosperous communities on the island.

If you’re lucky enough that life is leading you to enjoy some time in Svirče, start by orienting yourself to the island of Hvar. Many people mistakenly confuse Hvar Island with Hvar Town. Hvar Town (“Grad Hvar” in Croatian) is a globally-renowned hotspot for luxury and indulgence, located on the island’s southwestern coast. Meanwhile, Hvar Island itself is a sizeable landmass in the southern Dalmatian archipelago – about three times the size of Manhattan. Be sure to check out our comprehensive guide on how to get to Hvar for helpful tips.

The closest ferry port to Svirče is Stari Grad. Getting to Stari Grad from Split as a pedestrian is easy and inexpensive. Just book a ticket with the state-supported boat transit giant Jadrolinija to the port of Stari Grad. From there, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to Svirče.

You will see ferries and catamarans offered, although in peak season Jadrolinija often replace the catamaran line with a car ferry. Catamarans are faster, taking only an hour, and they only transport pedestrians. Ferries take two hours, they are a lot bigger, and they carry vehicles as well as pedestrians. If you are prone to seasickness, the ferry may treat you better. In good weather, you hardly feel the movement of the boat, if at all. Both catamarans and ferries have cafes with snacks and beverages, as well as (rather stinky) bathrooms.

Catamarans sometimes sell out in July and August and ticket lines can be long, so it never hurts to buy your ticket online a day in advance. Board your catamaran a half hour before departure to grab a good seat. Catamarans always have restrooms and canteens with snacks, espresso drinks, and beverages.

You might find that, because of when your plane lands, you need to take a catamaran to a different port on the island. Hvar Town and Jelsa are serviced by numerous daily catamarans. Just be prepared for a pricier transfer to reach Svirče from Hvar Town – the drive takes 30 minutes and costs around €80.

The one port you should probably avoid is Sućuraj. It’s a lovely little town, but getting from there to Svirče by car takes about an hour, half of which is along a nerve-jolting road, which sometimes narrows to a single lane with unprotected drop-offs. Of course, if adrenaline driving is your thing, then you now know where to go.

If you are renting a car on the mainland of Croatia or driving from elsewhere in Europe, then you will need to take one of the several ferries that connect Split with the port of Stari Grad each day, which costs around €50 per vehicle. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. As mentioned above, catamarans only carry passengers, not cars. Once you arrive in the port of Stari Grad, the drive to Svirče is a breeze and very short.

Alternatively, if you are driving from Dubrovnik or other points south of Split, it can make sense to take the ferry which goes from Drvenik to Sućuraj, on the eastern tip of island Hvar. You will have an adventurous drive, but can save considerable time compared to driving up to Split, waiting for the ferry, and then taking the two-hour trip.

In general, it is wise to book car ferry tickets a few days in advance, and to park your car in the waiting queue for the boat an hour early, because these spots do routinely sell out in the summer.

As you arrive in Svirče, you’ll notice a memorial park at the entrance, dedicated to those who lost their lives in the Second World War. The park features a striking 7-metre-high sculpture of a stylised vine, created by the renowned academic artist Dinko Vranković (1939–1996) from Svirče.

We love that this small village is home to one of the island’s best family farm shops. Mate Vranković’s shop offers a delightful range of top-quality, homemade products that reflect the heart and soul of its hardworking family.

Their goat's milk yogurt and homemade cheeses are particularly delicious and fresh. Visitors also rave about the exceptional wines and olive oils, as well as the homegrown vegetables. Don’t miss the opportunity to experience it for yourself!

The village of Svirče is dominated by the parish church of St. Mary Magdalene, a unique structure on Hvar Island due to its central dome and distinctive floor plan. In fact, it is the only church on Hvar that has a dome, and is one of the largest.

Built in the 20th century on the site of an older church, St. Mary Magdalene stands next to a 19th-century cemetery, now a World Heritage Monument. It’s well worth a stop by while you’re in Svirče.

A highlight of Svirče is the Božić oil mill, where the Božić family produce their oils using only traditional cold pressing methods, preserving the full nutritional value and aromatic richness of the olives.

Božić oils are internationally award-winning, certified organic, free from pesticides, and reflect their dedication to sustainable and authentic practices.

All of Božić’s olive tree groves are located on the island of Hvar. Most are located south of Brusje in the region of Krivoča, where nearby lavender fields infuse the oils with a distinctive lavender aroma. Another portion of the groves is situated in the Stari Grad Plain. This UNESCO World Heritage site, with its ancient Roman-era parcelling, enriches the olives with a touch of history and fertility. The remaining groves are found in the village of Svirče itself, where their oil mill is also located.

Just because Svirče is an inland village on Hvar does not mean you’ll have difficulty spending time on the beach. The closest beaches to Svirče are those surrounding the nearby towns of Vrboska and Jelsa on the island’s north coast, both of which are 5-10 minute drives away. Check out the dedicated beach sections in our guides to both towns.

Or, take a longer drive down the valley to the beach for a mid-afternoon dip on one of the south side’s idyllic coves. There are plenty to choose from, including Ivan Dolac, Jagodna, Petarčica, Bojanic Bad, and Sveta Nedjelja.

To reach the island’s southern side, follow the road from Svirče east further inland, passing through the villages of Vrisnik and Pitve until you come to the Old Pitve Tunnel. Carved out by convicts and other conscripted labour in 1962, the 1.4km tunnel is single-lane and unlit. This being Dalmatia, there is a wine cellar inside, just to the left of the entrance from the Pitve side – not that we would encourage you to pause and inspect.

Once you emerge from the tunnel, you will be greeted by a glorious view of the sea shimmering below. But don’t get too carried away, and be sure that your brakes are in good order. A few steep switchbacks await you as you navigate down to the shore. Drive along the coast road until you reach your beach of choice.

For more insights into Hvar’s gorgeous coves, read our guide to the best beaches on Hvar.

If you’re coming to Svirče, you will more than likely pass through Stari Grad. And you cannot pass through Stari Grad without visiting the stunning Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest agricultural landscapes in the world. Take a laid back bike ride through the fields, admiring the beautiful vineyards, olive groves, and fruit orchards. This entire landscape looks almost exactly as it did 2,400 years ago when Greeks from the island of Paros colonised the island and divided the Ager (from the Greek αγρός for field) into huge estates. If you want to know what all of this history tastes like, get in touch with OPG Pina, which cultivates 100% organic, bee-friendly, and biodiverse vineyards and orchards.

Spend the evening in Jelsa, an easy 7-minute drive or taxi ride from Vrbanj. Bars, art galleries, an open-air cinema, myriad dining options, farmer’s markets, a vast kids’ park, jogging paths, and a zillion gelato bars line Jelsa’s beautifully maintained riva, offering a buzzy change of pace to the tranquillity of Svirče. Stop by for a night out or a resupply. Parking is blissfully cheap, and a gas station waits just outside of town along with two large, brand new grocery stores.

Svirče is home to only one restaurant, the deliciously top-rated Konoba Figura positioned near the entrance of the village with a wonderfully domestic ambience on its leafy al fresco terrace.

Family-run Figura is known for its delicious pizzas and friendly service – alongside other Dalmatian delights.

Where to stay in Svirče