Zastražišće – THE 2026 TRAVEL GUIDE

You have landed on our guide to Zastražišće, an agricultural village with beautiful beaches on both sides of Hvar Island. We are Hvar Away, producing detailed local guides and travel journals to help you make the most of your visit to Hvar.

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Zastražišće is located about a 25-minute drive past the town of Jelsa. An Italianate church presides over a series of hamlets, rolling fields of lavender and olive, and a network of roads which trail down both sides of the island’s coasts to some of Croatia’s prettiest beaches.

What binds these scattered hamlets together is the shared school and church at the heart of the village. The community numbers around 200 residents, with a small post office and grocery store providing all the essential supplies. This is a place to step out of the everyday and reconnect with nature, loved ones, and self.

Above all, Zastražišće is a place to find stillness: sun on stone, sparkling waves, wind through the olive leaves, and a sky full of stars. That said, there is an art to leisure, and we have some helpful ideas to help you relax with panache.

Is there anything more quintessentially Mediterranean than the olive? This mighty tree has fuelled agriculture, trade, and culture for countless generations across the sun-soaked lands of southern Europe. Zastražišće has an especially strong connection to olives. It is home to one of the oldest olive trees in Croatia, planted 2,500 years ago by Greeks or Phoenicians. Having already lived five times longer than a typical tree, the plant still bears fruit today, which its custodian Tihomir Beroš Matunić collects each fall.

There is a real difference between hand-picked, organically grown, rapidly pressed olive oil and the stuff you find in the grocery store. When grown in vast monocultures, the lifespan of a typical olive tree is shortened to a mere 40 years, and yields bland, possibly tainted, oil. But unlike in Spain and Italy, industrial olive plantations are virtually unknown in Croatia. They are totally nonexistent on Hvar. Most orchards here are under a hectare in size, and picking the fruit is a family affair which happens over the course of a week or two in the autumn.

This gentle social ritual has hardly changed over thousands of years of civilization, and the quality of oils produced in this way is also outstanding. For proof, look to the New York International Olive Oil Competition where the relatively tiny island of Hvar has 7 “gold” standard oils.

By now, you are likely eager to sample these exceptional olive oils for yourself. If Zastražišće is on your travel map, you must (no ifs, ands, or buts!) go to Seca, a strikingly contemporary and attractive new tasting room presided over by Eva Marija, the dynamic scioness of the Čurin family olive orchard.

As a graduation present after completing her degree in agricultural science, Eva Marija’s parents gifted her 500 trees in this remote part of Hvar, which does not have electricity or running water. Undaunted, this young visionary went to work constructing a sophisticated sensibility in a deeply rural profession. A perfect example of this fusion is Seca’s tasting menu, a pairing of her highly praised oils along with innovative takes on local ingredients prepared by a private chef. The setting is spectacular, and just 15 minutes from the transcendently lovely cove of Pokrivenik.

To further expand your palate for olive oil, journey slightly farther from Zastražišće to Radojković in the village of Bogomoljje, which also offers tastings of its critically beloved oil – made in a grassier, spicier style than Seca – as well as its impressive mill facility.

According to a local volunteer historian, Bernhard Seif, Zastražišće sits in an area that was designated for grazing and agriculture as far back as 1331. The rhythms of sowing and harvest continue to guide the town today. Its soil and climate particularly favour aromatic herbs, such as rosemary, oregano, and immortelle. Spend a little time while you’re in Zastražišće absorbing the rich scents and medicinal benefits of these classically Mediterranean flora.

You could begin your day in Zastražišće by gathering provisions for a feast of biodynamic produce. Just off the main road, about 200 metres after entering the village from the west, a simple wooden sign on the right signalling homemade olive oil, wine, liqueurs and dried figs. In the case of the Babić family, the promise is entirely genuine. Everything sold here is grown and produced by the parents and their two daughters.

Babić offers a glimpse into the soul of Croatian cuisine, a reflection of seasonality and the land. Come late summer, fresh plump figs abound. Bottles of wine from their backyard vines pair beautifully with the range of seasonal fruits and jams on offer, including mulberry and fig varieties. The homemade olive oil proves excellent drizzled over fresh bread, especially alongside the bundles of fresh and dried herbs also available here.

Both Babić daughters are poets, so you may hear some authentic verses in the Zastražiški dialect. One is also a licensed tourist guide and the driving force behind the Zastražišće For World non-profit organisation, which works to keep village life active and sustainable.

Follow your nose, and it will take you to the lavender farm of Grgo Lučić, just a few steps under Zastražišće’s commanding central hill, crowned by the church of St. Nicholas. This small family firm produces the highest quality essential oils and extracts you are likely to find anywhere, in formulations many times purer and more potent than commercial beauty and wellness products.

As you approach the Lučić workshop, you are greeted by scents of wild laurel, rock samphire, Phoenecian juniper, St. John’s Wort, marigold, sage, mastic, comfrey, lavender, rosemary, and more. Inside, you can see the press which is used to extract half a litre of essential oil from more than 1,000 litres of plant material, and you can compare the scents and properties of multiple strains of lavender grown on the hillside just below. You will never find a better place to stock up on creams, scrubs, mists, and other premium self-care products.

Of course, the main draw of Zastražišće is its beautiful and largely undiscovered beaches. A network of roads trails down from the village to the different bays, all considered part of the Zastražišće region and scattered along both the north and south coasts of the island. Most of these roads are gravel dirt tracks (with a few asphalted), so an appropriate vehicle is essential.

You can easily spend an entire holiday zipping between the various coves, discovering favourites, and soaking up the sun. With no fewer than two dozen beaches to choose from, options abound.

The northern coast of Hvar is underrated in general. It offers more shade on the hot days of high summer, lusher pine forest, and often features more dramatic topography than its southern counterpart, as well as views of the Mosor mountains. On the northern coast of the Zastražisce region, from west to east, you have Vela Stiniva, Dubac, Kruševa, and Pokrivenik.

Vela Stiniva is a large, well-facilitated spot where great family memories are made. Walk past the shaded football pitch, little chapel, community garden, and the balotea court on the pier, and you'll find a perfect spot. The pebble beach sits between steep wooded cliffs with clear sparkling water, great for a day… or an entire summer.

It's straightforward to get there: just drive down the narrow paved road from Zastražisce village straight to the bay.

Right by the water, there's a restaurant serving solid pizza and fresh seafood when you get hungry. For over forty years, families have loved coming here, so your kids will soon be playing football with new Croatian or Slovenian friends while you enjoy a cold local wine at a table almost in the sea. Pure summer nostalgia.

We also promised to reveal some secrets, so here is one. In Vela Stiniva, there are two limestone caves. You can walk to one cave (do wear closed footwear) and swim to the other. The second cave is also reachable on foot, though swimming is generally easier, as the shoreline is littered with sharp stones.

To find the swimmable cave, start from the smaller beach in Stiniva, the one just behind the pier. Swim parallel to the shore on your right, staying about five to ten metres out. The entrance sits roughly two metres above sea level. You will need a short scramble over the rocks to get inside. The water is usually calm in this sheltered bay, making the swim straightforward for confident swimmers.

Inside, the cave is compact and features a small opening at the far end. Even if it appears possible to squeeze through, it is best not to attempt it, as its continuation is unknown. If in doubt, ask one of the locals nearby for directions to either cave. They are usually happy to help and will almost certainly repeat the same advice: do not enter the opening in the cave above the sea.

Dubac and Kruševa are beaches that reward effort. Reaching them delivers very little in the conventional sense and exactly what many people come to Zastražišće for: a simple pebble shore, clear blue water, and near-total quiet. There are no facilities, no distractions, and no reasons to rush.

That sense of calm is no accident. Access by car is challenging, with steep, narrow roads that are sometimes poorly maintained and offer few passing points. If you are not a confident driver, it may be wiser to choose a more accessible beach elsewhere on the island. Arriving by boat is far more pleasant. From Vela Stiniva or Pokrivenik, the ride takes around ten minutes by speedboat and turns the journey into part of the experience.

English is not universally spoken here, but assistance is always close at hand. More often than not, a younger family member will happily step in to translate. These spontaneous exchanges tend to be the moments that stay with you from your holiday long after the sun tan fades.

Pokrivenik is quite possibly the best beach on Hvar that somehow no one knows about. It feels like stepping onto the set of a dreamy, sun-soaked indie film you wish would never fade: twin shaded coves nestled together, one lined with charming old stone cottages, the other hosting a small and an excellent restaurant. The water is incredibly calm and crystal-clear, ideal for paddling on a SUP, gliding in a kayak, or just floating in total, blissful quiet.

Like Vela Stiniva, getting to Pokrivenik is easy. Just follow the signs for Veli Pokrivenik from Zastražišće, and the road is paved the whole way down to the bay.

Pokrivenik is also the starting point for a visit to Little Blue Cave, although unless you’re a long-distance swimmer, an SUP, kayak, or boat is needed. The entrance is not very big, and seems dark at first, but swim in, let your eyes adjust, and enjoy the magic without waiting in the line as you would at the more famous Blue Cave on Biševo.

There is also a remarkable cave on dry land that remains one of Hvar's best-kept secrets. Very few people visit it. Local legend links it to Homer's Odyssey and the encounter with Polyphemus. Even if it was not the actual site where the Greek hero battled the one-eyed giant, the cave possesses an undeniable power to leave visitors quietly awestruck. Though modest in size, its interior features a striking natural limestone formation in the centre. A flat, platter-like shelf lends the space an almost ritualistic quality. Access is restricted behind steel doors, and the cave is officially closed to the public.

That said, if you have a genuine interest in experiencing this extraordinary spot, we may be able to arrange entry by speaking to the gatekeeper (a formidable former judo competitor. We are quite serious). Just let us know, and we will do our best to make it happen.

The southern coast of Zastražišće is somewhat more wild than its northern counterpart, and there are several beaches that have no access road at all, and therefore can only be reached by boat. From west to east, these are: Veli Bok, Ljubinka with its isolated stone summer cottage,Kobil-Dolac, the sheltered cove of Vratinja Paklina, and the large, unspoiled expanses of Strvanj and Beach Vela to name a few.

The southern coast of Zastražišće is also dotted with numerous pristine beaches that are reachable by car, albeit along unpaved gravel roads, so a 4x4 is essential. They’re technically open to anyone brave enough to make the pilgrimage, but with zero facilities and long serpentine gravel tracks to negotiate, only the most dedicated seekers of solitude ever lay eyes on them. Additionally, none of these bays have any facilities, so make sure to pack an umbrella and snacks. If you relish an adventurous drive in exchange for a secluded stretch of paradise, the following beaches, again listed from west to east, are well worth the effort.

Prisinjak is home to a few summer houses, and a trail leads to Tamna Špilja, meaning “dark cave,” named for a small cave several kilometres above the beach.

The twin beaches Veli Črvanj and Mali Črvanj offer a study in contrasts. Mali Črvanj feels rather dominated by a single oversized residence planted squarely in its midst, complete with extensive stone walls. Veli Črvanj, by comparison, is a stretch of pebble beach backed by just a handful of scattered cottages, many of which appear long abandoned and gently reclaimed by the landscape.

Golubinka, translating to “little dove”, is home to just one summer house, backed by impressive terraces of stone walls that frame the surrounding olive groves.

A 4x4 car can also take you to the gorgeous beaches of Medvidina. Medvidina is actually a trio of pristine pebble beaches tucked side by side, each more impossibly beautiful than the last.

The westernmost one technically marks the final stretch of coastline belonging to Zastražišće, while the other two fall within the neighbouring village of Gdinj.

According to the remarkable kayakers at & Adventure, the cove takes its name from the Mediterranean monk seal, one of the most endangered animals on earth. Last spotted in the Adriatic in 1964, there is still evidence that these huge (300kg), elusive, and adorable creatures still visit nearby caves.

For guests of La Villa Bleue, this wild, turquoise Eden is simply the house beach… steps from your private terrace.

This remote village may not be overflowing with accommodation options compared to the larger towns on Hvar, but rentals in Zastražišće tend to offer a true sense of privacy and proximity to the gorgeous bays so many visitors to Hvar never reach.

The only official campsite in Zastražišće is Kamp Pokrivenik in the cove wearing the same name. Set within the bay’s pine-covered cliffs and just steps from the sea, the camp is rarely full even at the height of summer, making it a strong choice for travellers seeking calm and a close connection to nature. This sense of seclusion has nothing to do with standards. Facilities are well maintained and consistently clean. Kamp Pokrivenik owes its privacy primarily to its remote position on the far eastern edge of Hvar, rather than any lack of appeal.

Pokrivenik Bay is also home to the only hotel in the Zastražišće area. Hotel Timun lies in Mali Pokrivenik, the smaller of the two coves, and reaching it involves a short drive through the neighbouring village of Gdinj.

The hotel is modestly rated at three stars, and while it does not aim for luxury, it more than compensates with its striking setting and a team whose warmth and hospitality shine almost as brightly as the summer sun overhead.

Zastražišće’s real strength lies in its unspoilt character and its closeness to some of the island’s most beautiful stretches of coastline. This is where rural luxury properties come into their own. A quick swim before breakfast or a midnight dip to round off a perfect evening is as easy as jumping into the shower.

Given that Zastražišće is not altogether easy to reach, consider seeking out properties designed for comfortable self-sufficiency. Look for villas with generous communal areas suited to relaxed evenings in, a good barbecue setup, ample seating under the stars, and perhaps a decent outdoor pizza oven can transform simple nights at home into the highlight of the stay. These features turn the village's seclusion into an asset, allowing you to settle in properly without daily trips elsewhere for dining out or entertainment.

Finally, it is worth investigating what kind of concierge services your host will provide. Can they deliver groceries to your rental, saving you a trip into town? Can they arrange excursions and services starting from your villa, such as boat charters, in-villa massage, or a private chef? While a holiday far from civilization can be incredibly romantic, much depends on whether or not support staff will handle the practical considerations that can otherwise bog down trips to rural destinations.

At Hvar Away, we selected our portfolio property in Zastražišće, La Villa Bleue, and Casa M, due to their excellence in the dimensions described above, and based on our knowledge that we can facilitate truly stress-free and unforgettable experiences at any location on the island of Hvar, through our logistics team and network of Experience partners.

La Villa Bleue is, without question, one of the most extraordinary villas on Hvar Island. It is the seaside cottage that one dreams of while imagining a retreat to the coast. Truly steps from the sea, it combines comfortable modernity with Dalmatian charm. Not trivially, it was also designed with Hvar’s precious ecosystem in mind, being 100% off-grid and solar powered.

A sprawling tiered terrace, a generous open plan kitchen diner and living area, and light-filled sleeping quarters make this home a delightful space to enjoy time with loved ones. A sea kayak, two SUP boards, an outdoor grill and pizza oven, and the secluded trio of beaches offer delightful invitations to get outside. Finally, the bay is accessible to all that Hvar and surrounding islands have to offer, with a buoy sufficient for most speedboats, as well as a road to civilization.

Casa M has one of the best placed pools you’ll ever see. Rather than renovating the old stone ruin to add extra bedrooms to the property, the owner chose to transform it into a striking swimming pool. The villa itself is not directly on the seafront, but with such an inviting feature enclosed by tall stone walls, many guests find little reason to venture beyond the property's private confines.

That said, can one really claim to have visited Hvar without having swam in the Adriatic? Fortunately, Casa M sits right in the centre of Zastražišće village, putting all the beaches and coves described earlier within easy reach by car.

While the centre of Zastražišće has no dining options, a few well-chosen spots are tucked away in the village’s bays and in the neighbouring village of Gdinj, just a short drive further east through this remote, rural stretch of Hvar Island.

If Zastražišće features on your travel plans, you are set for a properly rewarding escape. First, make your way to the island of Hvar itself. Visitors often confuse Hvar Town with the island as a whole. In fact, Hvar Town is the bustling southwestern hub, celebrated for its glitzy atmosphere and the odd celebrity sighting. Hvar Island though, is a much larger affair – a substantial stretch of land in Croatia's southern archipelago, about three times the size of Manhattan.

Zastražišće lies peacefully on the southern coast, near the island's geographical middle, with its scattering of bays touching both the north and south shores.

The most convenient major gateway to Hvar is Split, the lively mainland city that merits exploration in its own right. Split has an international airport; and its train station, bus station, and busy ferry port are all clustered conveniently near the characterful old town.

From Split Ferry Port, you can take a car ferry (the only option if bringing your own vehicle or a rental from the mainland) or a quicker passenger catamaran to the island. Services run to the main ports: Hvar Town, Stari Grad, and once daily to Jelsa – but note that car ferries only run to Stari Grad.

For complete details on your options, consult our full guide to getting to Hvar.

Unless you are travelling by boat, you will need a car to reach Zastražišće.

If you are travelling from the Croatian mainland onto Hvar Island with your own car or a rental, note that there are only two car ferry ports: Sućuraj and Stari Grad. The only company that runs car ferries is Jadrolinija. Arriving in Sućuraj by car ferry from Drvenik only really makes sense if you are driving from Dubrovnik or other locations on the mainland south of Split.

The island has other ports (Hvar Town and Jelsa) but they only serve catamarans, which are boats that carry only pedestrians. One option is to take a catamaran, and collect your rental car from your port of arrival on the island.

From Stari Grad, the drive eastwards to Zastražišće is pleasant and unstressful until one reaches the town of Poljica, 5km away from Zastražišće. At Poljica, the new road ends and an older, narrower road takes its place. This road continues all the way to Sućuraj on the island’s eastern tip. It has windy stretches with steep drop-offs that require opposing traffic to give way. If you are not used to driving in rural areas, our advice is to take your time, pull over to let others pass, and drive defensively. Be sure that you are comfortable with your vehicle’s brakes and clutch, and perhaps avoid driving after nightfall if the terrain raises your blood pressure.

If you have arrived in Sućuraj, you will have an even more adventurous drive to Zastražišće featuring stretches of narrow, winding road with steep, unguarded drops, but can save considerable time compared to driving up to Split, waiting for the ferry, and then taking the two-hour boat to Stari Grad.

As you make your way along this picturesque but alarming route, you may ask yourself: why don’t they build a better road here? In fact, plans are in the works to do so. The challenge for planners and residents is to find a compromise that serves existing communities at minimal cost to agricultural lands. In all likelihood, a solution will be reached, and a modern highway will run through this region in 5 to 10 years. To a degree, the poor quality of the road to Zastražišće has preserved it and surrounding villages in amber, so don’t forget to savour the uniqueness of this environment. Think of it as your reward for driving with sweaty palms.

Arrival by boat – whether a catamaran, sailboat, powerboat, or yacht – is an enviable mode of entry to Zastražišće. Although the village boundaries touch both the northern and southern coast of island Hvar, the best anchorages are both to be found to the north, which faces Brač and the beautiful Mosor mountain range on the mainland of Croatia.

The first reliable anchorage is Pokrivenik. Its very name, which relates to the word for “cover” in Croatian, hints at its tranquil and protected position. In our opinion, this is one of the most bucolic beaches on Hvar Island, with a cheerful restaurant, gorgeous swimming, and sun-dappled clusters of fishermen’s cottages.

The second notable anchorage is Vela Stiniva. True to its name, which translates to “big cliff,” the harbour is wedged between steep limestone formations. There is a small harbour, as well as a stone bollard where it is possible to tie up, but these spots are often occupied by local craft, so one is best advised to take an anchor. A restaurant and a cafe overlook the radiant blue waterfront, flanked by terrace vineyards and a small chapel.